domi's general whine-and-whimper thread

[domi]

Ok, long story short - i was working on swapping my current FPR and the new one i got seems unfittable. I am attaching a pic with the old one, the new one and the fuel rail hole the new one can't seem to fill in any way. The new one is the huge red motherf***er, the old one is the dirty little one, the nozzle that's pointing towards the camera with the tiny O-ring is supposed to go in the open hole on the fuel rail, and it does pretty well. The new one, though, cannot fit in any way. Has anyone ever dealt with one of these FPRs or similar and what do i seem to be missing???

[Rick]

What you need is an fuel rail adapter that mounts on the fuel rail where your factory regulator was, (see bellow pic) then what normally you do is mount the red FPR on the firewall or where ever is best suited, then run fuel lines from there (see below link)

http://images1.fotopic.net/?iid=y4o5zx&n...quality=70

[domi]

Ever heard of somewhere they would offer such to fit the Blacktop's fuel rail? I went over a few shops today - nothing there. Went over to the local scrapyard - nothing with a 7/16" nozzle =(

[domi]

Scratch that - came up with a seemingly working DIY solution to that. Now the general problem that's been bugging me persists and since this thread is bound to die, might as well utilise it. My hachi's been sick ever since i've got it. Haven't ever had it working properly, but it's been a great learning experience and so far is well worth the trouble everybody around be has been giving me for constantly leeching on their cars to go to work =)

The bad reality is that the car seems to be leaning out, or so i thought. I knew the FPR was going, so i got the new one. Now that i have it in I can monitor the pressure and although the fuel pump is not at all healthy - it seems to be holding its own as far as pressure is concerned. The 2 kilos of pressure the manual for the Blacktop demands is well available. That helped with the idling problem i had, but not at all with the bogging and, i suppose, detonation. I suppose, because i just tested for bogging and it was there, haven't test driven, but i might a bit later tonight. The 'bogging' i keep refering to happens when the car is idling and i give it over 10-15% throttle. If i give it just a bit - it revs very well, but give too much and the noise turns into a deep rumble and the revs increase very slowly and the engine is obviously troubled. Timing was my first hunch - it was way off, but i fixed that 2 weeks ago, did the fuel pressure now and i'm running out of options... It used to detonate if i give it too much gas or i rev over 2.5-3.5k rpm in gear. I'm guessing that's still there, will check and update on that. One of the gurus on the BG AE86 forum suggested that the wiring for the throttle position sensor could be shorting and thus confusing the ECU. Did resistance checks on the TPS by the manual and it seems to be very much on track. The wiring really might be wrong. I did another check while i was at that - i disconnected the TPS to see if a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT will come on and it didn't... Seems the light is not connected. Now, i want to fix both these things, but i lack one important feature - i can not read wiring diagrams. They just don't really make sense to me.... I've been trying to look at some for the AE111 20v, but i can't seem to find what i'm looking for. My question is this: could someone that's dealt with or think they can deal with such a problem give me a hint as to where the other ends to the 4 cables going to the TPS are connected, so i can try to rewire that and hopefully solve the issue. That's one out of two - the other is if the same could be done for the CheckEngineLight - is there a way to externally fit any lightbulb to the respective connectors on the ECU or whereever and judge by that one if the proper one is supposed to light or not. I've taken the cluster apart just recently and really don't want to deal with that again - if the wires for the CEL can be located anywhere else, i;d just like to plug in another lightbulb parallel to the normal wiring and use that as a deterrent. And, oh yeah, if somebody could indicate what kind of lightbulb it has to be - that'd be great.

With all that being said - i really hope i can fix this, i wouldn't want to drive it to a shop now that i'm on the final stretch of getting it working... Hopefully that'd be an easy one, so i can finally post a proper projects thread

[domi]

The whinage and whimperism shalt live through the lack of postage!

Anyway, huge thanks to the 4AGE ECU topic's branch off I was able to run a LED as a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and the verdict is non-working Lambda sensor. I'm sure happy that's over with, now at least i know what to deal with. Initial research done and an initial question is popping up. The manual, printscreen of which i'll upload, states that the top 2 terminals should have 11-16 ohms of resistance inbetween. Mine have an open circuit. Or do they? Based on the picture in the manual what appear to be the two terms i need - they really are open. In irritation i tried any pair of terminals and the top-left and bottom-left have 14-15ohms. So the issue is either elsewhere, or the wiring's done bad. At this point, i'm fresh out of clues. I was thinking of PMing 86r to ask him if he can check his O2 sensor's wires and what goes where, so i can correct mine. But then again considering i did not do the swap, there's a good chance the wires are like that to compensate for a mis-wire somewhere down the line. I'm pretty damn confused as it is. I'll be running ECU checks and fiddling around with other issues around the car. If anyone has any ideas how i can check the 4 wires going to the connector and what should go where, please go ahead.

[domi]

yuh, about that shot...

[domi]

Aaaaand if anyone at all peeks in here, i'd be incredibly thankful to anyone that could tell me the terminals of the lambda sensor, what output they would have on ignition and which should connect to the heater cables and specifically which one would be the reading terminal... just checking..

[Mux213]

thats alot of reading
Unfortunately something I know little about

[domi]

Aaaand unfortunately the change of lambda sensors made no change, the bogging is still there along with all the leaning symptoms. I'm running out of ideas fast, actually i have none left. I thought i'd be able to have it running by tomorrow, but it seems that's not gonna happen...

[Ivan141]

knackered AFM maybe? Not uncommon on USDM hachi's.