Surreptitious.....

[oldeskewltoy]

SekiguchiUeno Wrote:i hope the upper spacer is from polyurethane, only just to be sure.
What wanted i know more is, what upper mounts you use? It seems TRD items are discontinued.

The upper mount is a TRD unit, I purchased them about 2 years ago when planning began on this project. From memory... the left side is discontinued part number 48609-AE851. the 48603 one is, or was still available not too long ago.


I have seen, on occasion, new TRD strut mounts for sale over in club4ag.

Btw... for those who are looking for upper mounts? I believe KYB makes the "stock" upper hat/mount. I know it isn't TRD, but a new upper hat, even a stock one, is better than 25+ year old stuff!!!

[einneb]

can you tell me what kind of valve covvers you use ? did u make them like this ?

[oldeskewltoy]

einneb Wrote:can you tell me what kind of valve covvers you use ? did u make them like this ?

These began life as stock "TOYOTA" "1600" cam covers. Using a dremel I cut the letter off, and then managed to get the surface true. I then found an engraver who "burns" with a laser, into the metal. I had the letter customised to match the engine builders logo, and my OST logo, along with the new engine size



A bit more to post today.....


Its 1:04 the charge and brake light are on... and the fuel tank is very low(empty).........






POST wiring! How can you tell?? Look for the 9k tach!


Now the problem is... I can't seem to find that kickpanel??? I'll be cleaning the garage up and trying to account for it all tomorrow..... more then. Oh... the two red wires hanging... both radio leads.

[oldeskewltoy]

Well, as I'm getting closer, I'm feeling the need to get this expletive DONE... I still can't see start up for at least a month....... but to soldier on


finally ordered ignition cables today.

Magnecor 8.5mm "CN" high ohm wire(5k ohm per ft). 2 leads 27", 2 leads 25".


Thank you Bob(Drift Office)! Went up to see Bob, and picked up a few parts(rwd plate, accel cable mount, and 20V IAC)...

I'm still scratching my head about the air intake/filter.... anyone have rational ideas on the air intake????


Problem - gas tank has three fittings 1 - pressure line (feed) from tank, 2 - return line to tank, 3 - vent line to charcoal canister, to BVSV, to intake port "C". The charcoal canister, and the vacuum circuit is a simple emissions device. It is used to minimize evaporating fuel - hydrocarbon release.



Above is a fwd water outlet, it is designed to accept 2 temp sensors which use straight metric threads(top photo). To run the fuel tank vent line properly to minimize hydrocarbon evaporation, I had to fit the BVSV from the GTS into the fwd water outlet..... The BVSV is 3/8"NPT thread... NOT 14mm.

This mod was super simple... take a 3/8"npt tap and run it in! As you can see in the lower photo, the BVSV is now installed into the fwd water outlet, allowing me to run a proper vent and have the engine consume the fumes, instead of the enviroment, and people around the car.

More to come!

[robokill]

that top strut spacer looks familiar :-D

the TE will look incredible

[oldeskewltoy]

oldeskewltoy Wrote:been a while...........




.....I'm still scratching my head about the air intake/filter.... anyone have rational ideas on the air intake????

Scratching my head no longer!!!!


Last week in my preparaing to be Chump car* car chief I was over @ Kris Lilly's trying to sort out some operational issues, when I spied an airbox on one of Kris's shelves. I asked Kris about it and he told me it came from his Ford Ranger (heh... at least it wasn't something GM). I asked, and he was gracious enough to give me the airbox.

* - http://chumpcar.com/



At the time I knew it was going to be a close fit, but I hadn't realized how OEM it would look.......... and FIT!





Let me introduce you to Ford engineering** number E57E-9643-1SY.
** - Engineering #s are the #s Ford stamps on the part... which often times is NOT the part number!!



Note how well the air temp sensor fits, a Dremel, and a home made grommet is a good thing. Also... this airbox is from the V6 2.8, or 2.9 liters, I seriously doubt any restrictions based on size.

It also allows me to use K&N drop in filter #33-2200!!!



Also note the somewhat different airtube. It began life as a regular AE86 air tube... About 7 years ago I had experimented with an airtube to see if 1) the air tube could be shortened, and 2) to remove the accordian bit to smooth out airflow.




After removing the accordian part, I used a bicycle tube to join the two parts back together, I then used some RTV to seal the inside of the tube to allow a bit of flex, while smoothing the airflow from one cut part to the other....




This last photo also shows that I can grab the air from behind the exposed headlight and duct it to the box. If you look carefully there is a LARGE opening at the bottom of the box(note the "stepped" appearence), all it needs is a bit of flashing material ductwork and it will draw in cold air from behind the headlight.


There are 2 issues I will have to re-address, but they are minor. 1) The overflow and washer tanks are situated over in that corner, they will have to be moved. The AE86 overflow tank is on the front edge of the shock tower, so that is where I will mount the overflow tank for this car. The washer tank is a different story... I MAY use an old... REALLY old style bag type washer "tank", that way I can mount it almost anywhere. I may look for something else. I can't use an AE86 tank,primarily because the MAP sensor is in the way as well as I'm not sure it will fit.


Oh.... the ignition wires came today... but I'll leave that for the next post.

[einneb]

very good looking car, and the engine looks clean also love it!

[oldeskewltoy]

Thank you for the kind words............






"Final development" on the airbox!

Cold air from behind the headlamp!!!




That "tube" is a 3" chimney pipe elbow. The inside is relatively smooth compared to the outside Another interesting tid bit... each passage.... is slightly larger then the preceeding one. The T/B is stock (about 2"), the airbox opening is 2 3/8", and finally the duct behind the headlamp is 3"

I'll add some semi gloss black paint and it'll "disappear"/blend right in........

[oldeskewltoy]

Well, the air side of the intake appears satisfactory.... now to do some more work on finishing the fuel side of the intake.


The LAST thing I want to do is run LEAN :eek:

the fuel rail pressure sensor will be there to monitor things, but an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is required so that proper pressure can be maintained. I had a few different options, when a used 20V TOM'S FPR found its way to me. Now although both 4AG, the 20V rail is drilled a bit differently, and so to make a 20V FPR fit.....



On the left is a brandy new TOM'S 20V fpr, on the right my used one. Each hole needed some modification, the hole on the left, was "opened" towards the center - about 1mm, the hole on the right was significantly changed -"opened in and up, nearly doubling the original size. Also the return pipe has been "adjusted"...




As you see, there is a wonderful small gap between cyl 3 and 4 that I'll run the return line through, keeping it all neat and tidy.

[oldeskewltoy]

I needed 2 (one +, one -) batt terminals that would accept eyelet cable ends.



These are premium METRA Ltd gold plated battery terminals -

Why gold? Little, or no oxidation, plus these are specific to + and -, and their total cost... $20 for both!

Besides taking an eyelet, they also "accept" 2 - 8 gauge wires (see the holes... and the set screws), overall a well made part.