coilovers advice

[robotype]

OK after the struggle to import them it's now time to put them on the car. the guy at the shop said I want to make sure the springs are not to short.

On the current setup I have swift 080 but they look kinda short also because the ring nuts are at the limit so I wouldn't be able to extend them later, pics:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/42991605/IMG_1529.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/42991605/IMG_1530.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/42991605/IMG_1531.jpg

lenght from the camber plate to the spindle is about 51 cm, not sure if that means anything. Anyway eventually I also have another pair of springs which are longer (see the black one in the pic), I would go for those so I can lower the car later but someone said they might be too hard?

suggestions?

[NoHachi]

You're not going to get any usefull feedback until you post spring length, spring rates, strut tube length and car spec / weight.

[Project D]

It look like you have an helper spring above the swift spring.
If that's it, it should NOT be fully compressed like this !!!
Swift 080 = 8kg

[robotype]

NoHachi Wrote:You're not going to get any usefull feedback until you post spring length, spring rates, strut tube length and car spec / weight.

car is lightly tuned and normal weight

strut shell is 38 cm long (35 to the spindle)

the spring I have now on the coilovers (swift 080) is 12.5 cm but it's compressed.
I don't have the tools to take it apart, I need to go to the shop to do it anyway the wire diameter is 10.5 mm

the other spring I have is 20 cm
wire diameter 12.5 mm
pitch 31 mm
inside diameter 6.3 cm

will this be too stiff?

[Uzelac]

Unwind bottom ring nuts until helper springs extend and all springs get bit loose. Then wind up a bit so they are tight.
On pic, all springs are loaded and helper is fully compressed.
All this should look like this on car, with car standing on its wheels.

For me, this looks it will be just fine.
80kg is a bit on the high side, good for track car with stiffened chassis, not so for daily/road use.

[robotype]

Uzelac Wrote:Unwind bottom ring nuts until helper springs extend and all springs get bit loose. Then wind up a bit so they are tight.
On pic, all springs are loaded and helper is fully compressed.
All this should look like this on car, with car standing on its wheels.

For me, this looks it will be just fine.
80kg is a bit on the high side, good for track car with stiffened chassis, not so for daily/road use.

thanks uzelac, my car is at the shop now. he said that setup should be ok, eventually I can soften the spring by lowering the ring nuts, correct?

what about the camber plates? do I need those or I should I remove them? I don't even know what' they are for...I won't be using the car on circuits, mostly for sunday drives in the countryside.

oh yes and about these springs; I got them for cheap in japan but they are cut. the guy at the shop was almost horrified when he saw them...should I be worried for some reason?

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/42991605/IMG_1532.jpg

and these are the rear shocks

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/42991605/IMG_1533.jpg

[NoHachi]

You can't soften the springs by lowering the collars, that only changes ride height.

Camber plates are used to, hold your breath, adjust camber. I would use them if you have them and they aren't rusted solid.

For drives in the country side 8kg/mm is a lot. Your tires and chassis will be doing all of the suspending, harsh, but communicative.

Cut springs are usually frowned upon, but can work reasonably in practice. Don't use them if you don't have to.

[zenki]

(springrates 7.4kg/mm front & rear 6.2kg/mm)

^^I've been daily driving this setup for over a year now and it's doable but very harsh. :wink:

[robotype]

NoHachi Wrote:You can't soften the springs by lowering the collars, that only changes ride height.

Camber plates are used to, hold your breath, adjust camber. I would use them if you have them and they aren't rusted solid.

For drives in the country side 8kg/mm is a lot. Your tires and chassis will be doing all of the suspending, harsh, but communicative.

Cut springs are usually frowned upon, but can work reasonably in practice. Don't use them if you don't have to.

thanks for the explanation, I have a better picture now.

the guy called me a few minutes ago, he said the car is ready.

he said he left the coilovers in the curent setup and he used the cut springs and the car is even front and rear.

I am looking forward to drive her.

btw what is the optimal pressure for the tires on a setup like this?

[Uzelac]

Mate, that is so tight for ordinary road use that no low tire pressure will help .

Those rear springs look like cut TRD onese. Don't mind that they are cut but i guess car will be really low at the rear because they are cut.
If a guy saids car is even front and rear then your car will be (too) low at the front also.

I suggest you to change front springs for at least 60kg/cm ones. 40kg/cm even better. What rate have the rear springs ? There should be some marking. AFAIR, if they are TRD there should be something like XXXX -YY. YY is how much kg for cm.

I have 70kg/cm at the front and 51 kg/cm at the back. I enjoy "spirited driving" on good roads and track time, but on bad roads and for regular daily thats too harsh.

Let us know how will you find out those!