OST-026: "My White Hatch"

[Project D]

oldeskewltoy Wrote:One of the problems with the 16V 4AGE design is the ports are horizontal. Being horizontal, the air/fuel charge must [...]

Maybe easier to see / understand for everyone:
4AGE 16v:


4AGE 20V:


Suzuki GSXR 1000

[oldeskewltoy]

Well the next piece to the puzzle arrived today.... a T3 smallport ITB adapter



Overall it came in good condition... although those 2 scratches in the far left flange... I have no idea how they got there... but they are just surface scratches, gaskets will seal that perfectly.



A 2 panel showing the manifolds fitment on the head...




The adapter WILL NEED some OST special attention... I will need to modify the manifold a bit by adding small set screws to the end mounting points so the fit is perfect...

By the way... which of the two above views do I want to set the manifold too?? (top view is correct, or bottom view is correct?)


Besides the addition of "jack screws", the manifold needs the machining marks blended, and, potentially, the opening changed to accommodate blacktop ITBs.

Personally... I think silvertop throttles are more than adequate to make power... and keep up the air velocity


More to come......

[d3nso]

Top view is correct. The roof is connected with the adaptor correct to allow the airflow flow without big restrictions.

Is that correct?

[Bean]

Nice work as always, I'll follow the porting of the adapter closely as I still haven't got around doing mine.

[oldeskewltoy]

d3nso Wrote:Top view is correct. The roof is connected with the adaptor correct to allow the airflow flow without big restrictions.

Is that correct?

I'm not sure you have it, I believe(not sure by how you described it) your visual is perceiving it correctly... but you don't quite have the grasp on what you see. First, the views are upside down... the top of each photo is actually the floor of the port.

So if you were going for roof alignment, then the choice was the bottom one... but this is a highly technical question.... and it somewhat refers back to changing the port roof angle. The VERY LAST thing I want to touch is any ports floor just before it bends to the valve. So if I position the manifold to the very bottom edge of the port, and hold that as my constant, I can then add a bit more angle to the port roof by matching the port to the manifolds roof. So the top view is correct, but because by placing it that way I can further increase the port roof angle....

and to paraphrase Margaret Stewart.... , "and that's a good thing" :wink:


A hint... before you look at anything of mine describing ports/bowls/valves... always look for the cues that tell you if it is port/bowls/valves up, or down


The 4 manifold/port/bowls...


#1




#2




These will be my controls... Since this is the first time I've worked an ITB manifold and the matching head.

#3




#4




note how all of them, even the 2 ports mostly shaped... can still benefit for a bit more removed from the roof...



It is also more than it appears...





So besides now being able to further raise the roof, I also need to shape the inside of the itb manifold too







The T3 manifold has a mild slope built into them, the round boring, which is also the mounting face of the ITB, is @ a shallow angle, while the manifold boring is horizontal, similar to the head. Where these two bored holes meet will also be ported...





The floors machined edge will get blended to minimize air disturbance directly behind the throttle plates.... I'm also working on a way to minimize those vacuum ports....


More to come......

[ZDoman]

I'm wondering what will turn out of this, because I've done the same thing (smallport head, T3 adapter, Blacktop 45mm ITBs) last year, with the same ideas, and I had to remove a "half kg" of aluminium from the head to look like something good flowing thing. What cams will you(costumer) use for this setup, with what C/R ?

[oldeskewltoy]

ZDoman Wrote:I'm wondering what will turn out of this, because I've done the same thing (smallport head, T3 adapter, Blacktop 45mm ITBs) last year, with the same ideas, and I had to remove a "half kg" of aluminium from the head to look like something good flowing thing. What cams will you(costumer) use for this setup, with what C/R ?

Cams... Toda 272 9.00mm lift... 1SZ buckets.... I've advised... the client to purchase a set of silvertop throttles... the blacktop throttles are unnecessary

I'm only doing the head work... but I'm advising a 4-4.25cc piston dome, as flat as possible... made for STANDARD valves... NOT OVERSIZE.(will provide a static CR between 11.9 and 12.9 depending on his choice of chamber volume (36cc down to 33cc) Final squish should be .9mm(.035"), deck and gaskets are your choice as long as squish gets to .035" and no less!

[oldeskewltoy]

oldeskewltoy Wrote:

the top view is port 4... the lower is port 3....




I've only worked the top of port #3(bottom of right port in photo below), but I'm beginning to see something I thought might be there.... (kinda like a sculptor seeing the image he intends to sculpt within his medium... )




Can you see what I see???



More to come....

[oldeskewltoy]

from another forum Wrote:I love learning :-)
Can we see pics of the jack screws, please.

Performed on both end mounting points.... apologies in advance... I used my cell phone for these photos




the holes are drilled 3 times, 1st with 5/64 bit, then 5/32 bit, and finish with 13/64 bit. Then tapped to a 6 x 1.00 thread




Once both sides are tapped... thread in the jack screws. Since I threaded it to 6 x 1.00, I used 6 x 1.00 set type screws that use an Allen drive.


Right side... (#1)




and the left....... (#4)





both sides now adjusted so the floor of the adapter meets the tapered edge of the intake port.



More to come.....

[oldeskewltoy]

from another forum Wrote:Thee work you do dan is just unreal

In the 2 photos below you can see the mounting hole is no longer round, but it is now oval-ized.

oldeskewltoy Wrote:

oldeskewltoy Wrote:

This procedure is performed with a 1/4" sanding drum. It could be performed with a cutting tool as well... although taking longer... the drum is far more forgiving



To have the ability to raise the manifold, the bottom of the bolt holes were worked. HINT - the rotary tool will tend to pull the tool to the right as you work the mounting holes(tools torque) YOU must compensate... otherwise instead of elongating you'll produce something comma shaped.



More to come......