OST-050 - a VERY special build

[Bean]

Customized locator pin?

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[oldeskewltoy]

(11-21-2018 05:51 PM)Nakilad Wrote:  Look like the locating hole has been moved a bit:

DING! very good eyes! the timing pulley was moved .006" off the pin




I also found out that AEM 4AG timing pulleys, and the OEM pulleys have the same setting for the exhaust cam (5 o'clock), but are NOT the same on the intake cam (12 o'clock), but are 2 degrees off.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME..........


Using the AEM timing pulley (as a measuring device), a stock timing pulley, the stock backing plate, and the cam, I was able to determine the amount of change. Working with the AEM pulley to determine how much was needed to equal 3 degrees (108 to 111), and then using the AEM as a reference for a stock pulley, "adjusting" the stock pulley - that turned out to be .006". I then cut 2 pieces of an old .006" feeler gauge so that it would be held fast between the pin, and the bolt snout - length wise, and approximately .005" thicker then the cam gear so the tightened cam pulley bolt would keep it from moving width wise.


More to come.....

[Nakilad]

I always find it amazinng the amount of detail you go into on these projects Dan. It's fascinating to see some of the solutions you come up with!

[oldeskewltoy]

(11-23-2018 07:25 PM)Nakilad Wrote:  I always find it amazinng the amount of detail you go into on these projects Dan. It's fascinating to see some of the solutions you come up with!

With cam timing "corrected", it's time to do a rough setting on ignition timing.

Set the crank pulley to 10 degrees, and set the distributor to #1



At the same time the TPS was set so it should start and idle. With the new cams, and new pistons/rings, my client will want to keep initial start up/break in to about 2000 rpm for about 10 minutes....



The assembled engine... (the fine print: 10.6:1, 244/212 8mm lift - set to 111 centers, HKS valve springs, ported head, light weight wrist pins, fully balanced)




As to the cam covers.... in the end this took the most amount of my time... they took a professional painter nearly 6 weeks doing them multiple times and they still are less then perfect

[Bean]

Almost too nice to hide in an engine bay.
That's a creation to be proud of.

Magnificently done Dan.

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[oldeskewltoy]

(12-06-2018 09:50 AM)Bean Wrote:  Almost too nice to hide in an engine bay.
That's a creation to be proud of.

Magnificently done Dan.

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Needed some measurements for this engine crate... the last one (OST-042) was easier since it didn't have any manifolds. This one has the intake manifold, AND distributor to account for - read as - not get broken!





Once off the stand, the Toda flywheel, along with the stock clutch were installed. I then built a cradle for it (2x6, and 1x6), and mounted the cradle to 1/2" OSB base. Worth noting the oil filter, now installed, has been pre-filled with Break-in oil - the client will add 4 quarts more.





strapped down, ready for the truck........

[Rascal21]

(07-09-2018 02:06 PM)ditn Wrote:  Most EU 4age are also map based
Except Switzerland,Germany?,...

I know it's late, but..
I have 2x early AE86's from Switzerland/W-Germany, one sold new in 1983 and one sold new in 1984.
Both came from factory with MAP sensor + VAF (Variable Air Fuel) potmeter (for adjusting mixture to a specific CO value).

But to get back on topic: Awesome build as usual OST, you never fail to impress for all the 11 years I've been reading your builds, as usual you have an incredible attention to detail.

Now the only things you don't do (on a regular basis) are engine break-ins to make it 130% (you've long since attained 120%).

Maybe a custom-made engine load variable application of some sort on a home-fabricated engine testbed (of some sort), in the comfort of your garage, as yet one more service, is something you've already considered? (Engine dyno's are expensive, and they don't read OEM ECU values), there are ways to data-log even the oldest 4A-GE's on the fly now (via bluetooth on a phone no less), in easier ways than a multimeter connected to every ECU input/output, showed in values that are easy to understand (for us gearheads).
In my enthusiasm I was about to post everything about that but I cut it all out as I don't want to appear to be hijacking your (or anybody else's) thread by advocating any outsiders services or products.

Reason for edit: Typos.

[Bean]

@Rascal21

You got a fair point there but actually do this proper (braking in an engine) needs quite a lot of space and infrastructure as one needs to put a load on it (brake). At this point we are already looking at dyno level equipment which most if not all of us don't keep at home...

This is a service only the very big shops offer. Honestly I can't think of a single one in my country who does this.
If OST were a shop with several employees and a big workshop why not. For the current circumstances this is way over the top. A lot of places don't even have the equipment to test flow figures which Dan has.
Last but not least even if one has the equipment, the time needed to do it is a major consideration too.

I agree with you he does deliver over the top (100%) service and obce you factor in the fees he charges you'll be hard pressed to find a better service on this globe (I've checked).

Once I get my 240Z registered in spring I'll send I'll have Dan work my whole engine and not just the head I already have.

Happy New Year everyone.

EDIT:
Maybe post your thoughts in a separate thread, I'm always curious about such things and would love to read your thoughts/conclusions.

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(12-29-2018 10:58 AM)Rascal21 Wrote:  

(07-09-2018 02:06 PM)ditn Wrote:  Most EU 4age are also map based
Except Switzerland,Germany?,...

I know it's late, but..
I have 2x early AE86's from Switzerland/W-Germany, one sold new in 1983 and one sold new in 1984.
Both came from factory with MAP sensor + VAF (Variable Air Fuel) potmeter (for adjusting mixture to a specific CO value).

Interesting, mine is a Swiss 85 and was already equipped with an MAF. I haven't had the pleasure to come across an older one yet. I'll need to check with a friend of mine who owned a dozen or so and see if he had one fron that age ti check if this was common or just a few one offs.

[Rascal21]

(12-29-2018 09:59 PM)Bean Wrote:  @Rascal21

You got a fair point there but actually do this proper (braking in an engine) needs quite a lot of space and infrastructure as one needs to put a load on it (brake). At this point we are already looking at dyno level equipment which most if not all of us don't keep at home...

----------------------------------------------------------------
Interesting, mine is a Swiss 85 and was already equipped with an MAF. I haven't had the pleasure to come across an older one yet. I'll need to check with a friend of mine who owned a dozen or so and see if he had one fron that age ti check if this was common or just a few one offs.

A semi-truck brake on a bearing retainer assembly leading out of an AE86 halfshaft (ATM transmission) should be good enough.

If yours is a 1985,5 then it would be an AE86 Kouki (which explains the MAF) or it could have been swapped in later on?

[oldeskewltoy]

ahhhh... equipment...

As nice as a dyno would be, there are a few pieces of equipment I could use before I get a dyno for break-in.

1) a valve grinding machine with a chuck accurate to .0005" or better. ($2500-$8000)
(working on this one)

2) a valve seat/guide machine. ($15,000-$60,000)

Both of those I might be able to get in my current shop space (current shop is one car garage in residential neighborhood), but to add/have a dyno, I'd need another room, and I'd also have a LOT more regs then I currently have (noise for one...)

I do agree I would MUCH prefer to break-in the engine here, make sure all the seals are in good order, and that there are no leaks before my client gets it. Maybe someday....

A BIG part of why I do heads as my primary work is that I have far less potential for issues then I have doing complete engines.