Digital Dash

[choyr]

So, I had time again to troubleshoot my digital cluster. after soldering the damaged connection and tried powering up again, rpm still doesn't work. If there is one way to check if my cluster is still working to rpm, I'll be glad to test it. Speedometer is working though.

What I don't understand is the tach signal to the analog cluster works, but it doesn't work in my digital cluster. same wiring I used but did not use the resistors for the moment.

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[Ivan141]

Make sure you connect all grounds and supplies on both connectors and try it again. Some components share ground connections and this might very well be the case with the fuel sender and the tach circuitry. Pin 12 should be fuel sender ground. I'm guessing any grounding point will do. Do not use the pictured 180 ohm resistor..
If you look at the wiring of the analog dash, you'll see the same thing happening with fuel and water temp gauge grounds.
Leave pins 13 and 5 unconnected for now.

[choyr]

Hi Ivan, this is what I did
1. Connected pin 12 to ground, pin 13 and 5 unconnected: nothing happened
2. Connected pin 5 to ground, pin 12 and 13 unconnected: nothing happened
3. Connected pin 13 to ground, pin 12 and 5 unconnected: fuel and temp displays disappear and it creates sparks. Found out pin 13 has 5V output.

I tried to trace back the bulb connection of low fuel indicator -. At the back of the cluster, there is a tag "FU" connected to the screw (pic below). I checked if this screw is the same as the fuel indicator - pinout 5 from my drawing and I couldn't find it. I checked all pinouts and there is nothing connected to that screw. I also tried to simulate temperature and fuel levels using potentiometers and the actual digital fuel level sender, but still not working - always giving full reading (I connected also the ground for the other plug). Now I'm thinking the IC is not working. But is this IC different from the speedometer because it works.

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[pack]

Recently my swaped 86 got back on the road....

I know face a 42 error..... Speed sensor!

I've connected the SP1 to the SPD wire on the 16V ECU but with the digidash i probably changed something.........
I don't think i've connected the right pin can you tell me if there is on the back of the cluster any way to connect the VSS signal?

Thanks

[pack]

Followed the japanese schematics.... and still getting error 42 on my ECU.

The damn speed sensor signal is giving me a hardtime......

Maybe i need the chime to solve the issue on the digital cluster? I know for a fact that the original analog cluster doesn't give error 42 on the blacktop ECU (because a friend has one).
V
Damn!

EDIT

Solved!!!!!! Followed the shematics translated from japanese and wired both LW pins to speed sensor on the ECU. No more engine light!

Thanks to aeu86

[mister86]

I know I am reviving a very old thread, but I recently bought a 1986 Toyota Corolla Sprinter Trueno RHD and imported it to the US. It has the the regular gauge cluster in it and I purchased the digital gauge cluster.

I have a digital water and oil pressure sensor already but dont have the fuel sending unit. So I had a couple of questions:

* is it a straight removal of the old gauge cluster and plug in the new one? If not, what are the changes I need to do in order to make sure it works?
* does anyone have the fuel sending unit they are willing to sell to me? If not, I heard that you can create a voltage divider circuit to convert the resistance from the sender to a voltage for the dash. If I do that, I dont know where am I supposed to create this circuit, where do I connect it and so on.
* I also heard you can use Arduino to convert the signal and its pretty straight forward, but do I need to first create the voltage divider circuit and then use Arduino?

Fuel level Voltage
Full 4.6-4.9
1/2 Tank 2.6
Empty 0.1-0.4


Any step by step guide would be very helpful. Thank you all in advance.

[banpei]

I have a RHD JDM Sprinter as well with analogue gauge cluster and also bought a digital one. Unfortunately it's not plug and play as the connectors and pinouts are different. I hope you did receive the digital plug alongside the gauge cluster.

The correct pinout for zenki RHD can be found here:
https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/337.../note.aspx
But this page is in Japanese.

I know AE86 drivingclub did this pinout for the AU cars:
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums...CONVERSION

Also don't take this diagram as this was created by Pack for the European models:
http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums...ash-Pinout

I researched the option to convert the resistance (Ohm) to voltage previously and found that the scale of the standard fuel sender unit is quite universal: 10 Ohm to 120 Ohm should map linear to 0.1V to 5V. You would be able to convert the voltage with an Arduino, but it's a bit overkill for what you need. In theory you should be able to change it using a LM358. (should be less than $0.20) I never got to the point to actually test this on my AE86, but this is the source where I found it a few years ago:
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/thre...st-1189651

[Ivan141]

You will need an extra plug for the digital cluster, I know it can be found on some Toyota wiring looms of the same era. The AE86 uses the same plug somewhere on the relay/fuse board up in the footwell, so do some other models (Celica I think). I might have put a picture of it somewhere in this thread at some time.

[mister86]

So my car is almost done, but I cannot seem to get the tach to work. I replaced the stock 16v ECU with a Link AtomX, and not sure how to get the digital dash to work now (worked previously with the stock ecu). I bought a tach booster but it didn’t work...any thoughts? Here is what I bought.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/axm-...h-adapter/

[Ivan141]

Well, if you read back there is mention of the fuel gauge needing to be connected for the tach to work, but we never got hard confirmation on that.
Do you have all the appropriate sensors connected?
That tach booster should do the trick for the ecu tach signal in principle.
Knowing what you're working with is always step 1, so if I were you I would try to verify what kind of tach signal you are getting from the ECU and what
the booster is putting out. Maybe wire the output to an analog dash to test?