***Ksport*** What about theese coilovers? Cheap?

[Rio_Cyber]

apolon , go tho turnsek (http://www.amortizer-sp.si/)

[Apolan]

i already went to one of his ex workers once, to rebuild my front OEM shock which were bust. He said they'll fix em up to be like new. Crappy job. They still dont work right.

I know amortizer, just dont know what they can do for me? Perhaps ill give them a visit and explore my options a bit.

[NoHachi]

Coilovers give you hight adjustability...nothing more. You can go shortstroke with ordinary springs too..same rules apply, but its difficult to get a correct ride height and the welding becomes more difficult.
E.g. If the springs you buy have a stiffness and ride height that you like, then its just a question of shortening the strut ABOVE the perch. To be correct you should remove about as much as the car was lowered. Then find a shock that matches the remaining length of the strut..usually a shortstroke shock with maybe a spacer underneath it to make sure it sits snugly in the casing.
Where there used to be a strut casing, there now is valuable bump travel, ready to soak up anything that the road will throw at you.

Forget about ride height VS roll centre etc..Because there is a lot that influences it..rideheight, strut inclination etc. It also moves around as your suspension cycles through its range..difficult stuff.
What you want to ensure is that you keep of the bumpstops and that you retain decent roll geometry (aka negative camber from bump). If you ensure these two things, your suspension will outperform most here on the forums.

[kid]

The good thing about the Greddy/Trust setup is that the dampers are adustuble as well. I meen in stoke length.

[Apolan]

Thanx (Damir is it?)! i dont know what i'd do without your help. Appreciate it! Yes and i thought about the exact same thing, there is quite a bit of strut casing above the perch. And that makes things very simple.

Say i would cut 40 mms from the top, put a 20mm spacer inside, use ae92 koni yellows and -40 lowering springs with around 4 kg/mm front and 3kg/mm rear. Should i use RCAs in this case? and how tall should they be? for getting the OEM geometry back, they should be 40 mms no? Or can one use smaller pieces because of increased stiffness?

Post Question 1: CAn i normally use camberplates on this setup?

Post question 2: what kind of rear shocks would i use in this case, ae92 ones? (for 40mm lowering)

Post question 3: Could i just revert to stock springs for the winter, stil using the shortstrokes?

[jamiemirror]

Quote:Say i would cut 40 mms from the top, put a 20mm spacer inside, use ae92 koni yellows and -40 lowering springs with around 4 kg/mm front and 3kg/mm rear.
.........

Post Question 1: CAn i normally use camberplates on this setup?

Post question 2: what kind of rear shocks would i use in this case, ae92 ones? (for 40mm lowering)

Post question 3: Could i just revert to stock springs for the winter, stil using the shortstrokes?

AE92 shock inserts are 40mm shorter than AE86 ones - so if you cut 40mm, use them without spacer under them.

Post Answer 1: You can - with any setup (even stock).
Post Answer 2: I used front Fiat Argenta shocks (30mm lower), I think AE92 will not suit.
Post Answer 3: No.

[NoHachi]

Jamie has the answers to all your questions and he's correct.

Regarding the rca's, just get whats available..I once made a cad model to figure out how everything worked (still pics online somewhere on the forums, search for rca's) but to tired to remember now..easier to just buy off the shelf anyway.

The setup you described by the way, seems like a fine beginners setup for a ae86. Not making any mistakes you'll be able to tap into 100% of their potential. Make photos and it should become a sticky.

[senna]

And soon i'l be able to give NoHachi a test-ride in my K-sport powerd Rx7 FC with some slightly controversial spring rates. (not telling what they are offcourse, that would spoil the fun) 1 week for the custom spring rates to be manufactured/dug up and then a little wait for shipment. I payed $175 for the shipping so it will probably go by air. 17 februari@Zandvoort is my aim. Hope i'l make it in time.

[Apolan]

Aha the ae92's are only 40mm shorter. well even better. what sort of shocks should i use for the rear then. I heard some talk about camaro/mustang shocks or mr2 sw20 shocks.. not sure..

One more thing, what is the difference betwen Negative camber RCAs and normal RCAs? i mean i know what the difference is, but i dont understand how it works? Seems like the same piece of metal, only different shape.

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=100



EDIT: aha i see they offset the strut to lower arm. -So those thingies would eliminate the bump steer and give me some 2.5 degrees of camber, which i think is ideal for the setup. Are theese a good choice or are there some downsides? Jamie will you make theese in the future perhaps?

and last, do i need to adjust the panhard rod?

much tnx!

[jamiemirror]

Quote:I once made a cad model to figure out how everything worked (still pics online somewhere on the forums, search for rca's) but to tired to remember now..easier to just buy off the shelf anyway.

Now we can make a real deal + discount (if the suspension model will work for the club members) Did you remember that I asked about studying etc ?

Quote:Jamie will you make theese in the future perhaps?

and last, do i need to adjust the panhard rod?

I'm not sure that anyone here will benefit of NRCA use. They are 3X more expensive than RCA (good for manufacturer, bad for buyer) but I think they are not necessary at the moment.
You will need to adjust tha panhard rod in order to "center" the rear end during lowering. First lower the car, then measure the rear end position and decide. I have a set of quality "stud" and "screws" that simplify the conversion (you just need to cut and weld your rod to make it adjustable with that set of details).