Trueno headlight issue ...

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Ivan-

From my notepad:


-------------R/G, LO, 1
R/Y__________________________R/B
HI___________________________POS COMMON SUPPLY
2___________________________ 3


That's looking at the connector from the front bumper, "into" the socket, wires on the far side.

What I had done was to wire the positive common "3" to the relay coil, and then run the other side of the relay coil to the low beam connection "1".

Then the common "3" and the high beam "2" are connected to the halogen hugh beam bulb--which is electrically isolated from the HID system. Totally isolated.

In normal operation, Sylvania also adds a diode between the HI and LO (1 and 2) pins, so that if the car cuts off the low beam power when the high beams are switched on, the HID beam will remain on regardless. I tried that--both directions for the diode--and DO NOT have that connected, since the car keeps power to the low beams on when the high beams are on, and the diode (bridge diode trigger they call it) is not needed.

To make it more complicated...If I have one new lmap installed, and NOTHING else connected to the other socket, both hi and low beams work just fine. If there is anything (new or OEM lamp) connected to the other socket--both fail to work properly, with the high beams remaining ON all the time.

I will try to take some test measurements tonight when I button the covers back up again. I lost a few of the bezel retaining screws over the years and just tried to chase down a set before closing things up. Here, no one has 4.7mm screws (which seem to match the remaining bezel screw, I can't get a dimension for that and my Toyota dealer's parking was literally impossible to reach today, I circled past and simply screamed).

I have a parts number to order more screws but figured, surely if I stopped on "auto row" I could....not find a single screw of the right diameter! (If I sound exasperated, yes, it has been a very long and frustrating day.)

The way that the lights behaved differently depending on whether there was one empty socket plus one new light, or one new light alone, was demonstrated and repeated with a helper there to make sure I wasn't imaging things. We have a series of snowstorms coming in the next 4 days & I need to have lights, with bezels and covers on them, buttoned up and working.

Which is why I'm settling to low beams at the moment--that's enough for right now.

But there is SOMETHING uniquely Toyota about this lighting setup, and it is not clearly shown in the schematics, if it is shown at all.

I'll try to attach the Sylvania engineer's hand-drawn schematic of how it "should" normally be done, note that his numbering on the socket is off (we corrected for that) and that he shows both ballasts on one relay, whereas I'm using independent wiring for each side, for redundancy and failproofing.


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