Engine advice needed

[Rascal21]

A bit of a long stack of words I`m listing up with here but you can always scroll on!

I`ve seen people run complete 20v block assemblies (pistons included) with stockish 16v heads just to get that generally added safety of oil squirters in the block, but as far as 20v piston shape+260`ish cam combo I`ve forgotten as far as interference cycle goes, that is, whether or not you need AE92 pistons to suit the added duration the 260`ish cams does with the Valves etc.
On that note, in the UK actually running 3/7-rib blocks or blocking off the squirters in 92/101/111 blocks seem to be what builders opt for, apparently with no issues.
The idea as far as I`m understanding it is that no oil squirters = no friction in the cylinder clockwork.
It`s always going to be subjective, myself I like oil squirters and thats that, it`s subjective.

Intake matching would be a plus to avoid all that supposedly surge related crap that may come with just slapping ITB`s on with the usual T3 adapter, SQ Engineering and lots of similar companies have doctor-worthy articles about that stuff up on their sites, the idea being get their perfect intakes or at least port-match the T3 one that you have.
But people just put stuff on all the time any way and from what I`ve seen on spirited winding road driving vids with setups like that, they definitely seem to give a bit more snap compared to bone-stock 16v.
I dont know if its worth it per say but most people have the parts so they try it anyway before what they decide what to invest in, because true high comp builds with ITB`s and kitchen sink cost a lot more money than "just some scrounged up ITB`s".

As for crankcase assemblies, Blacktops have lighter internals but you cant boost them to 2 bars or go really nuts with a Intel-D 13.5:1 race head or whatever as the rods generally seem to take a detour through unexpected places, but one could argue its about who builds the engine too.

The general rule of thumb is: AE92`s/AE101`s assemblies (or AE111 assembly with AE101/92 internals respectively) as a base for a semi-heavy build = you have a bit more to go on, by that I mean that personally I subjectively suspect that 200 N/A at the crank with ""no more"" done to the block than aftermarket high comp pistons and a general rebuild+Toda oil pump gears, but again its subjective and heavily depends on realistic options available to you.

If you have a 20v with Omex I`d say burn the bush instead of beating around it, put the whole engine in.
But everyone wants to try something different so I see where you`re coming from!
I`ve let out lots of exact specs and stuff because most has already been said earlier by far more capable people, but I`ve only said what I roughly "know" (also subjective) so far.
Good luck and have fun

[spill86]

(09-10-2015 10:40 PM)Rascal21 Wrote:  A bit of a long stack of words I`m listing up with here but you can always scroll on!

I`ve seen people run complete 20v block assemblies (pistons included) with stockish 16v heads just to get that generally added safety of oil squirters in the block, but as far as 20v piston shape+260`ish cam combo I`ve forgotten as far as interference cycle goes, that is, whether or not you need AE92 pistons to suit the added duration the 260`ish cams does with the Valves etc.
On that note, in the UK actually running 3/7-rib blocks or blocking off the squirters in 92/101/111 blocks seem to be what builders opt for, apparently with no issues.
The idea as far as I`m understanding it is that no oil squirters = no friction in the cylinder clockwork.
It`s always going to be subjective, myself I like oil squirters and thats that, it`s subjective.

Intake matching would be a plus to avoid all that supposedly surge related crap that may come with just slapping ITB`s on with the usual T3 adapter, SQ Engineering and lots of similar companies have doctor-worthy articles about that stuff up on their sites, the idea being get their perfect intakes or at least port-match the T3 one that you have.
But people just put stuff on all the time any way and from what I`ve seen on spirited winding road driving vids with setups like that, they definitely seem to give a bit more snap compared to bone-stock 16v.
I dont know if its worth it per say but most people have the parts so they try it anyway before what they decide what to invest in, because true high comp builds with ITB`s and kitchen sink cost a lot more money than "just some scrounged up ITB`s".

As for crankcase assemblies, Blacktops have lighter internals but you cant boost them to 2 bars or go really nuts with a Intel-D 13.5:1 race head or whatever as the rods generally seem to take a detour through unexpected places, but one could argue its about who builds the engine too.

The general rule of thumb is: AE92`s/AE101`s assemblies (or AE111 assembly with AE101/92 internals respectively) as a base for a semi-heavy build = you have a bit more to go on, by that I mean that personally I subjectively suspect that 200 N/A at the crank with ""no more"" done to the block than aftermarket high comp pistons and a general rebuild+Toda oil pump gears, but again its subjective and heavily depends on realistic options available to you.

If you have a 20v with Omex I`d say burn the bush instead of beating around it, put the whole engine in.
But everyone wants to try something different so I see where you`re coming from!
I`ve let out lots of exact specs and stuff because most has already been said earlier by far more capable people, but I`ve only said what I roughly "know" (also subjective) so far.
Good luck and have fun

Thanks for your input, the setup is currently ae101 block crank and rods with oil squirters, 16 valve pistons and largeport head with hks cams. ae101 bodies and t3 adapter, the inlet and exhaust chambers have port work done and it will have a 3 angle valve job done, i will look into getting the t3 adaptor port matched.
i know it might be a better option to put in the complete 20 valve but i would like to stick with the 16 valve for now

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Would anyone have info on where improvements are to be made within the t3 adaptor?

[Bean]

Don't have a picture at hand but the way the T3 adapter was made (machined from both sides) leaves a sharpish edge where the two machining surfaces meet. I'll try and see if I can find a picture later if needed.

[oldeskewltoy]

I've found some alignment issues with T3 adapters, and ITB manifold


Note the gasket and adapter don't line up well




How I went about improving the situation.....

elongated all the mounting holes in the direction you need the correction



Then on the ends, drill and install "jack screws"




Then adjust till set

[spill86]

(09-15-2015 09:32 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  Don't have a picture at hand but the way the T3 adapter was made (machined from both sides) leaves a sharpish edge where the two machining surfaces meet. I'll try and see if I can find a picture later if needed.

thank you

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(09-15-2015 06:14 PM)oldeskewltoy Wrote:  I've found some alignment issues with T3 adapters, and ITB manifold


Note the gasket and adapter don't line up well




How I went about improving the situation.....

elongated all the mounting holes in the direction you need the correction



Then on the ends, drill and install "jack screws"




Then adjust till set

That is very helpful i will look into how mine alignes