20v no spark & dry plugs.

[Rascal21]

With the usual yellow vendor Multimeter these are the readings my display is showing:

Injectors are getting .012-.013 to .015 volts with Ignition key switched on (Econ @ instrument cluster lights up) and resistance is between 13.1 and 13.4 on all of them.

The two wires @ coil gives .036 on the multimeter with Ign-on (Econ @ cluster lights up)

[jondee86]

Take all four clips off the injectors. Turn on the ignition. Test from the
clip to ground. One pin inside the clip should have 12V and the other one
nothing. Likewise, when the ignition is ON and you test from the coil
positive to ground, you should read 12V.

You need to backtrack the wires from the coil and injectors. They should
be connected to a key-switched 12V power supply. Also make sure there
is at least one good solid ground from the engine to the chassis, and that
the ECU grounds to the head are good.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: Resistance on the injectors is good.

[Rascal21]

With all clips off (And multimeter on correct mode...) the injectors are getting 3 Volts.
Coil Positive to ground is 12V indeed!

Key switched 12v power supply is good and connected to Black Yellow on ignition key, Fuel pump relay disengages a few seconds after stopping riding on the starter.
ECU ground to head is good:
Right on top of the head, where the holding clip for plug leads used to be, newly scraped and all, no space to get it on the back at the head but back, top, front.. should make no difference?

[Rascal21]

God I`m stupid...
The top of the head is separated from the main body of the head by the rubber gasket that runs all the way around!!

Brb..

[jondee86]

Rascal21 Wrote:Fuel pump relay disengages a few seconds after stopping riding on the starter.

This is correct. One coil inside the COR is energised only while cranking.
Once the engine fires it is energised by a separate coil that is switched
to ground by the AFM.

Getting there

Cheers... jondee86

[Rascal21]

Gotten there!

Turned out to be ECU Ground (Grounded to valve cover, which is separated by the head with rubber gasket all the way around)
I grounded it to Fuel rail which had a perfect spot, with a few tries the engine started right up!
If you hadnt mentioned ECU earth (And it would not have been the first time someone asked) I would not have figured it out (Took me 24hrs already LOL)

Thx a bunch

[Super Snake]

So a simple earth wire was your problem. Imagine that! It's simple, if there is no electrical power, it means the circuit is cut.

[Rascal21]

Yeah I knew it was something simple, but to imagine it was this.. I`ve seen many others with same problem and thought I had that shit covered


Now I have other kinks to work out, backfire @ TB #1.
Could this be Fuel Pressure Regulator trying to compensate for smaller leak at return line? (Leak only wets my hand, it doesnt drip, spill or spray all over the place)

No Oil Pressure reading:
I connected oil pressure gauge (Yellow-black) to firewall connector, but getting needle going all the way to the center (Nominal pressure) then drops all the way down while engine is still running...

Tacho shows nothing what so ever despite being connected at the right wire (Grey on firewall connector on the harness)

Still cant figure out what gauge cluster wire is for CEL.

[jondee86]

Rascal21 Wrote:Tacho shows nothing what so ever despite being connected
at the right wire (Grey on firewall connector on the harness)

AE86 tacho requires a connection to the coil negative. On the OEM setup
this comes via an output on the igniter. But if your igniter does not have
a tacho output, you should be able to get the tacho to work by taking a
wire directly from the coil.

Cheers... jondee86

[jondee86]

Rascal21 Wrote:No Oil Pressure reading:
I connected oil pressure gauge (Yellow-black) to firewall connector, but
getting needle going all the way to the center (Nominal pressure) then
drops all the way down while engine is still running...

It is usual for the oil pressure gauge to read above half on a cold start,
with the pressure dropping as the engine warms up. Depending on the
condition of the engine, the hot idle pressure might be one quarter scale.

Got oil ?? If you give the engine a rev, does the needle rise to around
half and then drop back as the rpm's drop ??

If the gauge or sender is reading low, then all readings will move to the
left. Hot idle could be only just off the stop, rising to somewhere between
1/4 and 1/2 when you rev the engine. If your engine has bad oil pressure,
you will get similar readings. The only way to know for sure is to remove
the oil pressure sender, and connect a mechanical test gauge.

Cheers... jondee86