4AGE. Is it worth the trouble?

[goos]

http://www.japanmoottorituonti.fi/?view=moottorit&id=18

never bought from the place but seems they got plenty of stuff to choose from even one gze. They can also import you anything if you wait 6 weeks.

[Gnugfur]

goos Wrote:http://www.japanmoottorituonti.fi/?view=moottorit&id=18

never bought from the place but seems they got plenty of stuff to choose from even one gze. They can also import you anything if you wait 6 weeks.

I think i've found a solid dealer for importing a engine. Looks like i'll be going for a 4AGZE.

Edit : Thanks Xaerob

[Chrisso]

The W series gearbox is a common upgrade in Australia. Have a look on ae86drivingclub or toymods (you can google toymods threads). Been done plenty of times so will answer your questions of tranny tunnel adjustments, gear shifter placement, bellhousings/adapters.

Your T series diff will get lunch boxed so you're better off changing to an F series or G series. Again, pretty common in Aus for turbo applications, so do some searching. We use a version of the Hilux for the G series and I think a cressida diff will give you a good starting F series. You'll need to shorten them and transfer the mounts from your T series diff. Both have LSDs available. The F series is lighter than the G, but plenty strong and has torsen LSDs available.

Chris

[Gnugfur]

Chrisso Wrote:The W series gearbox is a common upgrade in Australia. Have a look on ae86drivingclub or toymods (you can google toymods threads). Been done plenty of times so will answer your questions of tranny tunnel adjustments, gear shifter placement, bellhousings/adapters.

Your T series diff will get lunch boxed so you're better off changing to an F series or G series. Again, pretty common in Aus for turbo applications, so do some searching. We use a version of the Hilux for the G series and I think a cressida diff will give you a good starting F series. You'll need to shorten them and transfer the mounts from your T series diff. Both have LSDs available. The F series is lighter than the G, but plenty strong and has torsen LSDs available.

Chris

Thanks.
I appreciate every bit of information.

[Hen]

My opinion of the ooptions you suggest:

Rebuild your current engine-
If you are going to do all that work, I'd recommend getting a set of GZE pistons and rings (choice of 8.0 or 8.9 compression) direct from Toyota. Then put the engine back together, bolt on a turbo and have some fun. Personally I wouldn't worry about 3 vs 7 rib. Just use what you've got. I also believe that the only difference between GE and GZE internals are the pistons, rods, crank, block etc etc are the same.

Find a GZE-
Good option, it will bolt up to everything. Some small changes needed with the water piping (or reuse you old GE bits), but generally easy. May be cheaper than rebuilding IF you can find one at all (direct from Japan??)

Turbo a blacktop-
I'd steer clear of this. The compression is very high, and the rods and pistons are lighter, and also weaker than all other 4AGEs. It can be done, but I'd be very scared about reliability.

However, 200hp is easy with a turbo 4A, and any of the ways you mention will work, just some more reliably and cheaply than others.

... just re-read and saw you found a GZE. Good work, makes most of this post now useless though.

Hen

[eight-six]

Just wondering why everyone goes for GZE pistons when they can source proper forged pistons for the same amount? Last time I was shopping for internals for my SW20 I saw forged piston & rod sets for £350 in the US (obviously the exchange is Fubar at the moment but that will change).

Considering the cost of buying a GZE or the pistons alone surley it makes more sense to go after market? You will ultimatley have a stronger bottom end as a result.

It also means you can spec the compression to what you want - possibly run a higher compression that the stock GZE pistons for better off boost response? Or lower compression for a reliable boosted engine.

IIRC the GZE pistons are not forged they are cast forged (there is a more technical term for it - but I cant think of it), they ran a similar piston in the late spec SW20 3sGTE but these would fail under detonation or high boost application (usually at the ring lands).

Quote:Small port red top and silver top are both 7 rib, I believe that the black top is only 5 rib, but I'd have to look it up. Any of them will be a stronger block than the stock 3 rib.

AW11's have a 7 rib big port - and probably easier to source than a red top or ST for you EU guys?

Quote:Your T series diff will get lunch boxed so you're better off changing to an F series or G series. Again, pretty common in Aus for turbo applications, so do some searching. We use a version of the Hilux for the G series and I think a cressida diff will give you a good starting F series

Could it not be that if you ran a biggish turbo so you get good linear power, you poetentially wont end up killing the T50 box and back axle? From what I understand the F series back axle is also found on the Lucdia / Estima people carrier (they look so similar I forget which one) - again might be easier to track down compared to a Cressida? If you run the F series back axle then you then have the option to use F series diff's which are the same as those on Lexus IS200 - so a range of 1.5 and 2 ways can be purchased.

Quote:For gearbox the most popular route is using a W series transmission such as a w56 or w58. You will need a custom bell housing like the one out of the Philippines made by Rhett (Toycoolrolla on club4ag and hachiroku.net).

These were also available from a UK company - cant remember the name of them sadly.

[gon]

think fensport has them .... w58 bellhouse

[doggy]

eight-six Wrote:Just wondering why everyone goes for GZE pistons when they can source proper forged pistons for the same amount? Last time I was shopping for internals for my SW20 I saw forged piston & rod sets for £350 in the US (obviously the exchange is Fubar at the moment but that will change).

Considering the cost of buying a GZE or the pistons alone surley it makes more sense to go after market? You will ultimatley have a stronger bottom end as a result.

It also means you can spec the compression to what you want - possibly run a higher compression that the stock GZE pistons for better off boost response? Or lower compression for a reliable boosted engine.

IIRC the GZE pistons are not forged they are cast forged (there is a more technical term for it - but I cant think of it), they ran a similar piston in the late spec SW20 3sGTE but these would fail under detonation or high boost application (usually at the ring lands).

There is NO way you will find a cheap set of Forged aftermarket pistons for 4AGE in Low compression aplication - the cheapest i found was Wiseco ones (if im not mistaking the name) and it was like 480$ + 110$ shipping to Europe - and they where also in 10.9 CR ratio..

I bought late spec (87+) AW11 GZE pistons BRAND NEW from my toyota parts dealer for 260euro including new wrist pins / locks - so i think this is the Best solution if you are not aiming SKY high power wise...

I had 7AFE engine before - turboed it - and it ran 25K km + on 1bar of boost on TOTALY stock internals / stock headgasket - belive it or not - it holded super fine until the rod bearing vent out - and if you ever saw 7A internals - 4A internals in comparance look like they are Aftermarket ones So i guess 4A redtop rods or GZE rods + GZE pistons would hold up to 250+ Hp easily with right ECU mapping and right setup.

[eight-six]

Quote:There is NO way you will find a cheap set of Forged aftermarket pistons for 4AGE in Low compression aplication - the cheapest i found was Wiseco ones (if im not mistaking the name) and it was like 480$ + 110$ shipping to Europe - and they where also in 10.9 CR ratio.

Wiseco do forged 4age pistons in lower compressions – IIRC they do an 8 to 1. Considering what people are paying for stock GZE pistons then the forged alternative is not much more and will also be better. With a weak dollar importing from the US makes things very affordable.

The parts are there and they can be had cheaply just depends on how hard you look (ideally beyond Ebay!)

Anyway there isn’t any reason why you cant run a turbo on a high CR engine, as long as you have sufficient fuel, decent mapping and don’t push insane PSI through the engine it wont be an issue.

[ae86ca18det]

In my personal opinion, if you want serious horsepower and not spend a heep load of cash squeezing it out of any 4age model, swap in another motor, IE ca18det sr20det or 3SGTE if you know rotorys get a cosmo 20b just some suggestions if you want to do what your second pics shows! good luck with the project