Brake master cylinder
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03-26-2007, 09:45 PM
Post: #1
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Brake master cylinder
Hi folks.
currently got a leak and was gunna do the seals saw this on ebay US and wondered if it'd fit the UK model. The whole item is cheaper than the seals alone from Toyota and thats inc shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...521&rd=1,1 ![]() anyone know thanks Paul Live life on the red line |
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03-26-2007, 10:35 PM
Post: #2
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Brake master cylinder
I think it's worth a shot. I redid my seals a few years back.. cost me 110 euro's for the seals, and it did not completely cure the problems I was having.
I bought 2 sets of master cilinders on ebay for about 10 dollars a piece and they work perfectly. I doubt there's a difference between RHD and LHD models, but best ask around first. If shipping is too expensive I might be tempted to sell you my old rebuilt cilinder, but I'm still not sure wether it was just bad bleeding or the rebuild not working 100% that caused the weak pedal feel with it installed. Needless to say, the brakes are something that you would like to have the assurance of new parts with. FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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03-27-2007, 12:05 AM
Post: #3
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Brake master cylinder
shipping is OK and the final price will be ok
thanks for the offer of the rebuilt one but would sooner chance a new one for safetys sake Live life on the red line |
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03-27-2007, 02:10 AM
Post: #4
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Brake master cylinder
I would do it. Its very cheap compared ro thr toyota prices. This part you came up with its from AISIN, wich is exactly the same house for TOYOTA, but without the toyota box. So, the chance of getting a BRAND NEW OEM PART is there mate.
![]() CumpĀ“s Filipe Oliveira |
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03-27-2007, 08:29 AM
Post: #5
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Brake master cylinder
I have just done this. The body is slightly different in that the outlet to the rear brakes points up rather than goes straight out the nose. Obviously you could easily make up a new short section of line to the proportioning valve. Also, the pipe from the reservoir is on the other side if that makes sense, although in effect this makes no difference. The brake warning light from the cap uses a different plug connector, though this is easily changed.
The unit they supply actually has the 'Toyota' casting ground off the side of the cylinder. I have a brake master cylinder stopper fitted which didn't fit with the shorter USDM master cylinder so what I elected to do was dismantle the new USDM cylinder and rebuild my JDM one with the new seals, reservoir etc. The bores on mine were fine. Works a treat and is easy to do, just read the manual so you know how to do it, in particular the piston stop bolt (often incorrectly assumed to be a master cylinder bleed valve). The seller was good to deal with, postage very reasonable (no markup)and it arrived promptly. |
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03-27-2007, 05:53 PM
Post: #6
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Brake master cylinder
thanks for the info, much appreciated
Live life on the red line |
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04-01-2007, 05:25 PM
Post: #7
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Brake master cylinder
had a look at the one thats on the car yesterday and the link pipe to the rear splitter does go up and bend around then go downwards....and this is an original MC so looks like i'll be investing and won't need to alter anything
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() cheers folks, advice much appreciated ![]() Live life on the red line |
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04-01-2007, 10:16 PM
Post: #8
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Brake master cylinder
Just make sure you install the new master cilinder correctly.. bench bleeding it thoroughly is very important... A pressure-fed of vacuum-pull-trough bleeding session after it's installed will ensure that you get proper brake-feel.
FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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04-02-2007, 05:58 PM
Post: #9
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Brake master cylinder
thanks for the tip about the vacuum bleeding. Not sure how to bench bleed or what you mean by it. could you explain plz
cheers Paul Live life on the red line |
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04-02-2007, 06:19 PM
Post: #10
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Brake master cylinder
You usually get instructions with the master cilinder.
New MBC kits often come with plastic fittings and some small bits of hose. You basically clamp the master cilinder in a vise and run the outlet tubes back to the reservoir. Fill up the reservoir and carefully pump the cilinder till there are no more air bubbles coming out. I dont think this is necessary if you can get it pressure-bled (most dealerships use pressure-feed devices, I can tell you they work miracles!). If your going to hand-bleed or use one of those easy-bleed devices or pull-through systems, then I would definately bench bleed it properly. The beauty of those pressure systems is that you can open the bleed valve and just patiently watch the stream of brake fluid come out. I have done this to my volvo, and there where pockets of air that would only come out after a long time. You wouldn't expect any more air to come out after you get a lot of clear fluid if you where bleeding by hand. FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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