MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
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05-09-2008, 06:30 PM
Post: #11
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on the ECU are connected internally on the ECU's pcb, so it fires them all at the same time anyway.
FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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05-09-2008, 07:40 PM
Post: #12
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
You check your grounds on the ignitor or the intake manifold?
Fully Restored 1985 Corolla GT-S 1987 328ci SR20DET Drift Car 1989 Honda Civic Si-R Current Project 2002 Corolla CE Daily Driver http://www.TheTunerSource.com |
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05-09-2008, 09:50 PM
Post: #13
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Ivan141 Wrote:Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on the ECU are connected internally on the ECU's pcb, so it fires them all at the same time anyway. Very true that is why I have it wired the way it is now due to all four of the injectors being fired at the same time. It is unlike the USDM 4AGE-C where the injectors are paired which I found out after I looked at the wireing diagram. Im going to check the fuel pressure. I have a bad feeling it maybe my pump or something not letting enough pressure to be built up or something.. |
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05-10-2008, 12:00 AM
Post: #14
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Quote:Doesnt matter how you connect the injector pairs, those two outputs on I am aware of this However, if you are using a factory loom, the downstream side of the injectors will be wired as I described, and can be traced to make sure there is no wiring problem. But the main point I was trying to make, is that when using the ballast resistor, there are two separate feeds out of the resistor, each feeding two injectors. If you wire the two outputs of the ballast together, the internal resistors will be in parallel instead of in series. Therefore your injector circuit resistance will be wrong. By all means check that the igniter has a good earth, and certainly check that the earth on the head is secure... both are common causes of poor/erratic running. Cheers... jondee86 |
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05-10-2008, 12:14 AM
Post: #15
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Ah, very good point about those resistors ending up parallel. That's something you shouldnt mess up, ECU's built for high-Z injectors dont live long if you use them with low impedance injectors.
May I ask how the car idles when it is started? If it runs like crap, then something is likely to be very wrong. If it idles smoothly, but dies when revving, then it might be a smaller problem altogether. Also, put your nose next to the exhaust next time you get it idling.. if it smells pig-rich, you can assume it's not the pump that's causing you problems (unless the circuit opening relay is not working properly that is, but you can rule this out by just jumping a permanent 12v source to the pump). FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC! |
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05-10-2008, 10:03 AM
Post: #16
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
It will start and run( Idle ) fine sounds normal to me no sputtering or anything as far as I can tell. and it will run for a good minute maybe alittle more and then die. However this is running with the Injector Resistor wires tied together and then tapped into the yellow injector wire. I will rewire it as stated above and see if that helps...
But Ivan to answer your question it seems to be idling fine. It will idle at 1500rpm or so.. Not every time but some times it will sorta flux in idle like.. 1500..then drop to around 1400 or 1300 rpm and back up to 1500rpm kinda like a wah wah wah fluxing if that makes any since at all. But I think it started to do that only after I had started it and idled it, killed it and started it again and repeated while tinkering with it.. But in the long run it doesnt seem to bad while idling.. As I said before I will rewire it and post up later on if that helped or not.. Just a thought that crossed my mind.. It wouldnt have anything to do with the TPS would it? just thinking that maybe that is why it kills over if you try to give it gas.. but maybe Im over thinking it abit to much. |
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05-10-2008, 12:06 PM
Post: #17
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Hmmm.... there is one thing that might be worth checking while
you are under the hood. Pull the return hose off the fuel rail and make sure there is fuel being returned to the tank when the engine is cranked. Should squirt everywhere, so be careful !!! Cheers... jondee86 |
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05-10-2008, 09:45 PM
Post: #18
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
jondee86 Wrote:Hmmm.... there is one thing that might be worth checking while That is a negative.. No fuel going out of the fuel rail being returned to the tank.. what does that mean?... Could that be my problem, whatever it is? |
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05-11-2008, 12:17 AM
Post: #19
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
If the return hose is dry, you probably are not getting a proper fuel
supply to the rail. If there is fuel coming to the rail (pull one of the hoses and check), then the problem may be with the fitting of the pulsation damper (assuming that you have one). The pulsation damper looks much like the FPR, but without a vacuum hose. It attaches at the front of the fuel rail, on top of the banjo fitting that brings fuel into the rail. Above and below the banjo fitting are copper washers. One of them (the top one) is a thin washer with "teeth" on the inside diameter. If this has been replaced by a plain washer that is a close fit on the bolt, it can severely restrict the flow of fuel into the rail. If you don't have a pulsation damper, check for a blocked fuel filter, kinked hose or flattened hard line. Disconnect the hoses one at a time working away from the fuel tank, until you find the point where you lose flow/pressure. Cheers... jondee86 PS: Going down the shed to check some of this stuff now |
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05-11-2008, 01:49 AM
Post: #20
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MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!
Hmm This could be the problem! I think Im going to maybe just get a new damper.. What I did was replace the damper and the FPR with the ones from my GTS motor. However the GTS one was leaking alittle. BUT.. Seemed like It maybe made alittle difference. But however it was still killing over upon trying the throttle. The washer had gotten messed up when I took the GTS damper back off.. Do you have a pic of the ' Teethed " Washer that is supposed to be on there. I dont think that mine had it. ..
to me it looked like the Inside of the washer was flanged out on both sides but im not sure that is what you mean.. If you have a pic that may help.. Im sure If I can get a replacement damper at a autoparts store it will come with some but I want to be sure. |
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