AFM to Map Conversion

[ps13michi]

Hi,
I m doing a map conversion bc my car is a german AE86 with afm and Kat. So it has the AFM which ist not good to tune and also in my case does not work with the Toda 272 in and 264 out.

When the Tevis opens my air fuel ratio went down so it gets to rich. Cuts the torque and gets richer with the rpm.

So I guess that if you will do it plug and play you need:

- engine wiring harness
- ECU
- Map sensor
- co sensor screw
- Suction temperature sensor
- intake manifold
- Flange at the back of the head
- ignition distributor
- Ignition coil / control unit
- Injectors with correct resistance
- interior wiring harness

If you switch all of that it is Plug and play. I will go the way without switching the interior wiring harness.
So first of all did somebody do it without changing the interior wiring harness?

I have found a solution on that but needs testing tomorrow so I might drop a video on that bc i did not found that much info about it but I think its a cool thing to do.
Especial for me due to a verry good interior wiring harness. No broken cables also everything is working fine and car was in a garage for all of his life so i dont want to change the good harness.

[Ivan141]

The engine is mostly on a separate wiring harness I would guess, so there's probably not a lot you would need to change on the interior harness.
Also, the MAP version does not use an O2 sensor at all, those are usually there to help protect the catalytic converter from rich exhaust fumes.
I also doubt there is a significant difference in the intake manifold, probably only some vacuum tube more or less.

[ps13michi]

(01-03-2022 03:34 PM)Ivan141 Wrote:  The engine is mostly on a separate wiring harness I would guess, so there's probably not a lot you would need to change on the interior harness.
Also, the MAP version does not use an O2 sensor at all, those are usually there to help protect the catalytic converter from rich exhaust fumes.
I also doubt there is a significant difference in the intake manifold, probably only some vacuum tube more or less.

OK i might put it into the wrong words I mean the CO changer (the little screw) which usually sits near the battery and distributor.

Correct Intake is almost the same but you have no hole for the intake temperature sensor. I will try to get the sensore in the position where the recirculation of the exhaust was.

From the ECU the 14 pin is different.You neet to change the W and straight line up the FC also repin the SPD

[ps13michi]

Ok car is now running.

At first the car was running 10 sec and shuts off

first mistake by myself didn't check that the distributer marks match up - so fixed that.

second point was the new engine harness has no resistant for the injectors so i borrowed high ohm injectors from Josip.

Again engine shuts off after 10 sec so I put the fuel pump on + and car war running.

After that the Problem was located in that area and so I had to check the 14 pin at the ECU they are different from afm to Map. So at first i pinned the SPD to the right place, after that the ECU needs FC but in the AFM version there is no FC the Circuit relais went from there to the Aft back to the ECU so I went from the Circuit relais to the ECU.
Also pinned the not needed pins out.
At least the warning light did not work bc its on the 20 pin ECU not on the 14 so I located the cable and than went from there to the ECU and warning light appears when I start and also when ich did the Ignition timing.

So car is running but at the moment to rich in the partial load or at idle around 12-12,5 afr but at full throttle the car is running around 13,3 afr wideband. But i went for only 1,7 bar fuel pressure und tried to turn the co screw.
I think that the injectors are to big from Josip bc they are from his rallye ae...

I keept the temperature sensors on the front of the motor and make the cables longer for that.