What camshafts would be nice?

[BOOMEX]

PatrickAE86 Wrote:12.5 CR :o

i was thinking about 11.5 or so...?
was thinking about catcams (7105140)

intake 282° exhaust 275°
intake 10.5mm lift exhaust 10.0mm lift

If you want an engine that work and have a nice tork at low RPM a big CR is a must.

I say 12.5 to give you an idéa of what you need
but in fact it dépend on the cams that you are going to buy. so your needed CR could be more..

Edit: For exemple:

[Project D]

PatrickAE86 Wrote:12.5 CR :o

i was thinking about 11.5 or so...?
was thinking about catcams (7105140)

intake 282° exhaust 275°
intake 10.5mm lift exhaust 10.0mm lift

Actualy CR make everything. That comparable to the turbo pressure.
More you have, more you make power, but too much and you broke your engine.

Tomei recommends 12:1 CR for their 264°/8.1mm camshaft (with great setup, ITB ans standalone ECU you can already go over 165hp with that kind of cam)

Going over 8mm lift meen not only change the lifters but also change the springs. (to avoid coil bind)
OEM, Toda (springs only) and I think HKS also are not made for cams over 8.5mm lift.

Also if you whant to keep your car "streetable" don't go over 280°, the power band is to high for daily driving...

For ME, the best setup for you would be something around 272° / 8mm lift and new pistons with higher CR.

PS: with ITB setup you need to be ready to spend over 2k€.

[BOOMEX]

The pic that i posted was made for the cams that ProjectD talk about.

[Project D]

BOOMEX Wrote:The pic that i posted was made for the cams that ProjectD talk about.

Actualy the picture you used was extracted from on Tomei PDF by myself also

[PatrickAE86]

Ok thanks for the info
and for you're info.. my car wil not be a daily drive

and the money thing.. i'm able to spend it..

[Project D]

Ask to woper the list of his old setup.
For the few thing that I remember:
HKS 272°/8mm, forged piston, ITB, Standalone ecu -> 180hp
I hope it might help.

[robokill]

ok first off 48 mm itb's are to big. It will cost you power instead of deliver more.

Ok cams, forget low lift. If you want a good engine you will be looking at 10mm plus lift cams. Apardal hit the spot with the cams. It will keep the max RPM lower which will keep the engine reliable.

A high revving engine will need more maintaince and will break sooner. What is your base to start with?

As I reckon it will be either 3 or 7 ribbed lower block with a 40mm crank and 18mm piston pins. In that case try to keep the RPM's as low as possible.

If you want a high revving engine, start by getting a 42mm cranks with rods of 20mm piston pin. Also make sure you have an non overbored engine. This could increase the lifespan if you have any issues that you can still overbore it.

As lowering the deck on the lower block or shaving the head isn't a good option. You will be looking at new pistons and a 0.8mm headgasket that should get you somewhere around 12.

You will probably be looking to spent aorund 2000 on the bottom end if you get the work done. Don't forget to clean the crank counter wehights and polish the crank journals. Clean the lower block and clean the oil canals for better flow.

[waffenschmiede]

stupid question? Why not lower the block for more compression?

[Project D]

waffenschmiede Wrote:stupid question? Why not lower the block for more compression?

If you do this your piston will hit your engine head

[Bean]

just another thing to throw in catcams are quite steep/wild compared to other so the ones you have listed will be equal to TRD 300 or so rather than 288... you have to compare the 0.1mm lift duration to tell the difference...
IMHO go with 7105149 it's a bit shorter in duration but still plenty of lift or if you want a bit less lift 148 (what I had planed but don't have the $$$$ for a stronger bottom end just yet)
and as the others said... springs and lifters are a must
TRD 90501-AE851 springs will work with the stock retainers and the lift or you can get a kit from Supertech incl. Titanium retainers...
for Lifters you can use Toyota 1SZ solid lifters but you'll need to measure everything out before ordering as they are single piece... or go for underbucket shim style like Toda or Arrowracing(not sure if they still exist).
Advantage of underbucket shims is you can just replace the shim if clearances change where as with the 1SZ you need to buy new lifters...

final note the 140 will take you up and maybe beyond 200hp so your bottom end realy needs to be up to the beating... and yeah balcktop ITBs are too big the lower air velocity too much which will result in less torque and power overall... you want to keep air speed flowing into the engine as high as possible (narrow ports) without restricting the volume (so as noarrow as possible but wide enough to support the power you are aiming for). set yourself a power/torque target before you start build.