Diff bearings

[izanagi]

Hi all,
I just changed the bearings of my diff but there is a problem with the pinion bearings.
I setted up the diff (ring part) but when I finish with the front pinion bearing the problem arrive as I need to tighten
the nut of the pinion with the wrench (107 Nm minimum) but it is too much because after that the pinion and the ring don't move anymore.
I think my bearing spacer doesn't touch the front and rear pinion bearing, is it serious or not ?
I hope my english is understandable. Sorry I'm from Belgium.
Thanks for your help

[fax0815]

Not really sure what you´re doing, but are you using a solid spacer with no shims, or recrushed the crushed sleeve? Doesnt the pinion bearing get set by initial torque rather then just doing the nut up?

[izanagi]

(05-29-2014 11:36 PM)fax0815 Wrote:  Not really sure what you´re doing, but are you using a solid spacer with no shims, or recrushed the crushed sleeve? Doesnt the pinion bearing get set by initial torque rather then just doing the nut up?

I'm reusing crush sleeve that was in my diff.
I changed all the bearing.
Finally when I preload the front bearing at 107 Nm like said in the manual, the companion flange doesn't move anymore as it's supposed to move. After several searches on the web, I can understand that the crush sleeve need to be in contact before tighten the nut, do i'm right ?
If it's like that there is something wrong because my bearing are the goods ones but they doesn't touch the crush sleeve even when I tighten the nut at 107 Nm but it's the companion flange that is crushed and blocked.

[jondee86]

Are you using a solid spacer or a crush tube ?

With the solid spacer you must adjust the length with thin
shims (washers) until when the nut is tight, the pre-load on
the bearings is correct. Not enough shims and the bearing
will lock up. Too many shims and the bearing will be loose.

With the crush tube you tighten to 108Nm and the tube will
compress. Alway check that the pinion is still free to move
while you are tightening the nut. Check the preload and if
the bearing is loose, tighten the nut little by little until the
preload is correct. Sometimes it is necessary to tighten the
nut more to get it to start to compress... up to 235Nm max.
If the crush tube does not compress, replace with another
new crush tube and start again.

If your crush tube is already compressed and not long enough,
you must get a new one. Too much preload will quickly destroy
the bearings. Not enough preload and the bearings cannot
work correctly. They will wear out sooner and allow the pinion
to move around, possibly causing noise from the pinion not
making a correct contact with the crown wheel.

Cheers... jondee86

[izanagi]

I need to use a new crush sleeve if I use new bearing.

---

(05-30-2014 12:03 AM)jondee86 Wrote:  Are you using a solid spacer or a crush tube ?

With the solid spacer you must adjust the length with thin
shims (washers) until when the nut is tight, the pre-load on
the bearings is correct. Not enough shims and the bearing
will lock up. Too many shims and the bearing will be loose.

With the crush tube you tighten to 108Nm and the tube will
compress. Alway check that the pinion is still free to move
while you are tightening the nut. Check the preload and if
the bearing is loose, tighten the nut little by little until the
preload is correct. Sometimes it is necessary to tighten the
nut more to get it to start to compress... up to 235Nm max.
If the crush tube does not compress, replace with another
new crush tube and start again.

If your crush tube is already compressed and not long enough,
you must get a new one. Too much preload will quickly destroy
the bearings. Not enough preload and the bearings cannot
work correctly. They will wear out sooner and allow the pinion
to move around, possibly causing noise from the pinion not
making a correct contact with the crown wheel.

Cheers... jondee86

As I can understand I have to use a new crush sleeve.

---

Thanks for your fast help jondee86 & fax0815 :-)

[totta Crolla]

(05-29-2014 09:38 PM)izanagi Wrote:  I setted up the diff (ring part) but when I finish with the front pinion bearing the problem arrive as I need to tighten the nut of the pinion with the wrench

It sounds like you are setting it up the wrong way around as the pinion bearing pre-load must be done before the crown wheel and differential is fitted.
A new crush sleeve should be used.

[izanagi]

Finally i successed. The diff is set up correctly but it's still whining. What could be the problem ? Could it comes from the rear wheel bearing ?

[wouter86]

could be, quite hard to hear via the internet.

My rear wheel bearing were worn out and they made more of a very soft rumble noise before they were replaced.Were the still rolling smoothly when the axles were disassembled?

It can be quite difficult to point out where a whine is coming from.There are quite some bearings in the driveline (gearbox, propshaft, wheels, diff).

You will have to start excluding possibilities by testing.Is the whine speed realted?is it gear related?if you slalom left to right, does it get worse (putting side pressure on wheel bearings)?is it getting worse under load(accel/decel)?

Maybe you can jack up the rear axle and put the car in a gear and let it roll so you can listen around the moving parts, be very carefull though...

good luck!

[izanagi]

The whining is louder at acceleration and even when i drive in neutral position.

[Bean]

(06-23-2014 06:43 AM)izanagi Wrote:  The whining is louder at acceleration and even when i drive in neutral position.

does the sound change when changing to another gear but going still at the same speed?

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