Valve sound

[dikolotour]

Here i am again.

This afternoon i removed cam covers to mesue the valve clearence.

I think my cams are damaged because some of the round things that they revolve (i don't know the exact word) are more round and the others are sharper!!!

I also mesured the valve clearence and i was surprised!!!

For example the service manual suggests for the intake 0.15 - 0.25 mm and i managed without any force to place the No 0.35 filler in between!!!

I'm really dissapointed!!!

What is your opinion???

[jamiemirror]

Measure the lift (this is easy).

[dikolotour]

Yeah

I forgot to mention that i mesured each round thing and i found big differrences.

I suppose this is not normal!!!

[jamiemirror]

How mms you measured ?

[dikolotour]

I remember differences about 2mm from each other

[jamiemirror]

I'm asking about smallest absolute measurement man.

[dikolotour]

Sorry man i don't remember

[jondee86]

Hmm.. it seems that something ugly has been going on inside
your engine

The valve clearances are measured between the "back" of the
cam lobe (base circle diameter) which is a non-wearing part of
the lobe. If the clearances are greater than specified in the
manual, then it is the valve or shim that are worn. This will affect
the valve timing (open later, close earlier).

The shape of the lobe, in particular the height of the tip of the
lobe, affects the valve lift. On a standard cam the tip should be
more or less symmetrical (evenly rounded), smooth, and without
evidence of scoring or pitting. All lobes on the intake cam should
be of uniform height, and the same with the exhaust cam.

If there is an angle showing on the leading side, and the tip of
the lobe appears flattened or blunt, then you should consider
replacing the camshafts.

I would recommend that you have the head rebuilt at the same
time, to make sure the valves, seats and guides are all in good
condition, before installing new camshafts.

Cheers... jondee86

[dikolotour]

Jondee

As you said there is angle on the leading edge of the lobes so i have to change my camshafts.

The question is, should i buy some OEM ones or some aftermarket. I found TODA camshafts 264o duration and 7.9 lift which i think is the last step before changing shims, springs e.t.c.

As for the rebuilt i was thinking the same thing,but i'm having second thoughts because previous owner told me that he had done a full engine rerbuilt 40.000 km ago.

We will see...

Stay tuned!!!

[jondee86]

The lowest cost option would probably be to see if you can find some
good condition OEM cams from a junkyard engine.

Better option would be to get your own cams builtup and then reground
to stock or similar profile. Any reputable engine rebuilder should be able
to arrange this. Just make sure the base circle diameter is not reduced
from stock.

Best option would be the Toda cams if they are in good condition, and
available at a reasonable cost At 264 deg they should still work with
the stock ECU and give you a nice improvement in top end performance.

If you don't want to pull the head, just do a compression test to make
sure everything is sealing properly. 40,000 km is not a big distance for
a 4AGE, and it should be fine.

Cheers... jondee86