Corolla Levin Repair, Paint and Tune - WITH VIDEO

[apardal]

Yes woper, I'm running way too rich. But I have an Apexi SAFC to tune the mixture.

I've also changed my ECU with an overclock (thanks to TURBOMOTOR.DK) that changes the rev limit as well as injection. Rene told me that the rev limit should saise a good 400-500 rpm and the injection should be affected by 1/8 to a leaner condition.

That is more or less the leaning I need to get the AFR around 13. So I may not even need the SAFC. I bought a NGK Powerdex to know the AFR all the time.

I'll dyno it with that setup and if it works Ok and the rev limiter is high enough, I may look around for a 272 camshaft to gain a little more rpm.

Best regards

[Rasteirinho]

Quote:While I was sorting all these things out, I was also fighting with the crankshaft pulley that was sooooooo stuck that I thought it had bond together with the crankshaft!

After some hammering and twisting and pulling it came out and right now I have a bunch of things to do to have the car ready besides the suspension issue.

Dear Friend,

Next time try with a hot air gun, i used on mine and it jumped out "easily".
Since the iron from the pulley is "weaker" than the one from the crankshaft, after giving some hot, it will get out more easily.

[woper]

Apardal - Apexi isn't bad.
But remeber that in 4age, Apexi doesn't read TPS signal. That means that You cannot tune low throttle - only hi throttle available. Look out for knocking between 3500-5500 rpm. Don't go with ignition over 12 deg.

Better way is Perfect Power SMT6. It's also a piggy-back but can modify ignition signal and have lots of functions that Apexi doesn't offer. Start procedure, turbo pull-up, 2 independent maps, TPS signal, AFR reading with Lambda,5th injector, vtec controller (in 4age You can manage TVIS via vtec controller), progessive electronic boost controller menagment and more. Easy to tune (PC laptop needed and com wiring). And most important - it's cheap... less than EUR300,00

[DJexor]

hey apardal! Looks like you got a lot of work there. I Hope you'll get your suspension parts soon! I also had to wait 5 months till I had all my suspension parts arrived. But hey... look at the bright side! The longer you wait, the desire to drive will be bigger and then you'll be soooo happy when everything is done!!
Good luck with essembling the engine and drivetrain!! Keep us updated when somethings done.

[Rasteirinho]

Nice hint woper...

I'm tempted to try one of those Perfect Power piggy back...

[Roku_trueno]

Dear apardal

RESPECT!!!
Your project is awesome!This is exactly what I had in mind to do as soon as I get a hachi!Or almost...I have some suggestions for you,and your car will be my dream car (every AE86 is my dream car, but never mind...)

First, if you use it mostly as a race car, you should install a roll cage, or at least front and rear strut braces, to ingrease body's torsional stiffness.If you don't want to lose all the space the roll cage needs, you should try a tubular spaceframe put under your cars underbody...
Second, I think it's critical to update your brake calipers with something bigger (etc brake calipers from RX7-II (FC) which cost a little)
I think your car has too much roll with it's current suspension...I would change the suspension with an aftermarket adjustable coilover set.The cost is high, but you can change your suspension's setup really easy, and test what different setups can offer you in time on a race track.
Generally speaking my philosophy is to have your car as lightweight as possible...Have you considered of changing AE86's stock seats (which are really heavy) with racing buckets?They "handle" your body better at the corners and are lighter at the same time...
Also think about replacing the standard battery with a lighter one (gel).You could save about 6kg.Another good but pretty expensive solution is to replace your stock hood, trunk and fenders with carbon fiber(expensive solution) or glass fiber ones (less expensive solution).You could save a lot of weight!!!
About the engine now...I suggest that you should try a standalone ECU with a 4 throttle system.If you want to reduce noise, you could use an "exhaust throttle"(I don't know the exact term in English, but it's something like a diaphragm in your exhaust, which is basically free to close and open, controlled by electrical means, and it reduces the producted noise)

Anyway, what I just told were my suggestions for my car...The car is yours and you do what you want, but I think I gave you some ideas!

Keep up the good work!

Greetings,
Harry

[NoHachi]

WTF? Is this some kind of joke?

[apardal]

Roku_Trueno, thank you for your post.

Your suggestions are welcome, and they are also right. But so that you know, I had all that in mind prior to your post.

I make my decisions regarding some factors: money; car purpose; money, and finally money.

In all that you suggested, I can say that I have Greddy Coilovers arriving, I don't intend to go with the independent throttle bodies solution, exhaust throttles are a bad solution because in case that system fails and close the exhaust you are in serious trouble, roll cage is not on my road going car plans, carbon fiber is way too expensive, stock rebuilt brakes with good brake pads for a little more then stock engine is enough and a bucket seat is on my plans...

Thank you

Best regards

[NoHachi]

Ah..I thought you guys knew each other or the likes...nevermind then :mrgreen:

[Roku_trueno]

Money is always trouble...That's the reason I don't own a Hachi yet!In Greece finding an AE is difficult, and the ones for sale cost 5000-6000...A lot of money for a rusty 20 year old car, according to my father.Of course, I have an opossite opinion, but...Anyway, if your priority is the road use, all you say is right!Hope to see your project finished (but people like us here, never finish their projects...There is always something to improve!)

Greetings,
Harry