new discs pads and bearings

[black86]

ok i shud be fitting these over the weekend......i have haynes manual but dnt understand one part.....after putting new disc, bearings on you tighten the hub nut to certain torque ok.....but then it says loosen the bolt until you can turn it by hand then leave it???? hmmmmmm that scares me....wont they be 2 much play??? it will seem loose even with the collet pin in.....shudnt i tighten it more tighter than it says??....or wud that put 2 much stress on bearings......help

[Ivan141]

I usually do it by feel, works most of the time. My track volvo has the same bearing tyle, and the book also mentioned a certain torque, but all the mechanics at the volvo dealership say that it should be adjusted until there is no more play.

How to do this:

Tighten nut down until you can no longer move the brake disc back and forth (when holding it at the top and bottom, otherwise you might be feeling play in your steering, which is not what we want to find out).

Then you put the wheel back on and grab it at the top and bottom...then see if there is any back/forth play in it. If there is, tighten the bearing a bit and check again.
When I get that just right I usually tighten the nut a really small bit extra and stake the nut.

Did you also replace the bearing race inside the hub?

[black86]

hmmmmmmmmm i havent replaced anything yet.....here is a pic of one bearing set.....i think i got inner outer and oil seal....does that include the bearing race inside the hub???.......also do i fit the ring shield 2 that the bearings are lent on in the pic????........what do u mean by stake the nut?

[Ivan141]

The bearing race is the metal shield that they're leaning on... it's usually pressed in the hub, you will need to get the old ones out with a center-punch (brass drift) and install new ones with the help of some piece of tube of the same diameter. I dont know if you can stake the retaining nut on an ae86, but on most old cars you can.. when you look at the original nut and it has a dent beaten into it, that is a stakred nut. When you put a new one on you tighten it and when it's in place you punch a dent in it's side to lock it in place. The AE might have a different system..havent done it on mine before.

[assassin10000]

Lets see if I can clarify it for you. In your picture you have '5' parts.

2 bearings (part with rollers)
2 bearing races (angled metal piece with nice smooth surface for the rollers)
1 hub seal.



To replace bearings on an AE, or service/grease them [or any veh with this style suspension - spindle/hub/bearing]

1. Remove brake caliper & bracket. (be sure to hang with wire, zipties or a piece of a coat hanger - you dont want to stretch the brake lines!)
2. Remove the dust cap & cotter pin.
3. Remove the CASTLE nut (what AE's have) or stake nut.
4. Remove the keyed washer.
5. Slide the wheel hub, brake rotor & bearings out as one piece.

The outer (smaller) bearing will fall right out, if you dont want to get old nasty grease everywhere be sure to catch it before it drops.

6. Put hub on the bench, ground or wherever you wan't to work on it. Get a screw driver or prybar and remove the HUB SEAL (gently if your just greasing them, as these seals for the AE are designed to be removed & reinstalled)

The inner (larger) bearing will now fall out.

7. Now, get a small/medium BRASS punch/drift and knock the bearing races out of the hub.

It's easier to start by doing the small one. When you look inside the hub you will see that the bearing races stop against a lip/extruded ledge which has 2 openings 180 degrees from eachother (note: you may need to clean out the old grease to see, sometimes its completed filled in the middle of the hub). Position the punch at those points and hammer them out, remember to switch sides every 2-3 taps otherwise you'll wedge the bearing race into place.

Repeat for the other side.

8. Clean the old grease out of the hub if you haven't already.

9. Using a piece of pipe, a large socket - or the old race (cut through one side with a hacksaw or something) Install/knock in the new bearing races until they stop (if using the old race a brass hammer makes life easier)

10. Grease the inner bearing, drop into hub then install hub seal. Slide hub onto spindle. Then grease the outer and slide onto spindle. (be sure to put plenty of grease on the new bearing races too!)

To grease you can either find a needle at a local hardware store designed to fit a grease gun and fill the bearings individually.

OR the old school way by putting a glob of grease into the palm of your hand and 'raking' the edge/opening where the bearing cage & bearings are down into the palm of your hand. Which forces grease into the bearing (messy but fun).

11. Install washer.

12. Now the fun part: how to take the slack out of the bearings, seat the bearing races and set the bearings for a smooth long lasting life.

a. Install castle nut, tighten with wrench or ratchet until snug (or according the Toyota FSM - 21 ft. LBS).
b. Loosen castle nut, and retighten BY HAND until it stops.
c. Once stopped put ratch/wrench back on and turn 1/4 of a turn.
d. Spin hub by hand and check for any binding. It should have some resistance, but spin smoothly once moving. Check for any 'catching'
e. Loosen castle nut again and run in by hand.

13. Install cotter pin. If the castle nut doesnt line up so you can install the cotter pin. You can spin/tighten the castle nut a little, just until you can get the cotter pin in place - but no more than that. (overtight = bad, you'll need to replace the bearings pretty quickly if you overtighten)

14. And complete reassembly (install dust cap, caliper & mount and go test drive!)

Andrew