the many more 4AGZE questions topic

[ditn]

since i have alot of questions(again),i hope to collect them in this topic

exhaust system:
what system would be the best for a 4AGZE?
(for zolder i need to stay under 95db)
I was thinking a janspeed exhaust system with 2 1/4,2 1/2 diameter?
I have a 4-1 janspeed manifold

intercooler+ piping.
? inch from air filter to the sc
2? inch piping after sc to intercooler and to the manifold
what would be the best size for the intercooler,im having trouble finding it out.

engine
I want to do the same like hks did with there supercharger kit for the 4AGE
instead of pushing the boost up with other pulleys and abv mod,...
i want to make the cr a bit higher and maintain all oem parts.
Now i have 8,9 , how high could i go safely 9,5?
the trd radiator cap,is it an improvement or will it do more harm then good?
can i use 4AGE headgasket,other gaskets for the 4AGZE?

And a local question
how much can i expect the cost to be for a vems ecu+loom+tuning from dp-engineering?

more to come ...

[bozu]

For intercoolet piping etc see here: http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/gze-145-b...highlight=

[ditn]

good info thanks.
hm i was planning on using a vertical intercooler since it would give me the shortest route and be the easiest for me.

| intercooler | radiator,bit smaller +double or tripe the thickness |
| oil cooler |

2 inch piping seems to be the best option then for the intercooler piping

[Vaptor]

I am planning a front mounted Intercooler, but the intake and outtake pipe is in the same side, thereby getting the best cooling, and still a short piping, with a 2" piping

[oldeskewltoy]

ditn Wrote:since i have alot of questions(again),i hope to collect them in this topic

engine
I want to do the same like hks did with there supercharger kit for the 4AGE instead of pushing the boost up with other pulleys and abv mod,...
i want to make the cr a bit higher and maintain all oem parts.
Now i have 8,9 , how high could i go safely 9,5?

Send the head to me...(or buy one from me...) [email protected]

I'll do the following....

1) Deshrouding the combustion chambers will remove most of the sources for pre-ignition(ping). This will allow you to safely run added compression


With you already having determined the piston(8.9 to 1), you have a choice as to other methods of boosting compression....

2a) having the heads surface machined(shrink the combustion chamber), 2b) have the blocks surface machined(smaller "deck") 2c) use a thinner head gasket 2d) a combination of a,b,and c (see photo below)



The easiest method would be for me to supply you with a head with 33cc chambers*, and for you to have the blocks surface machined for a .010"(.25mm) deck, then use the OEM gasket.

* you will be REQUIRED to use correctly set adjustable timing pulleys. This is because the distance between the camshafts and the crankshaft is shrinking(head cut and block cut) and because the gap between the cams and crank has "shrunk"... you need to adjust the camshafts to compensate.

3) In addition I will also re-taper the exhaust port to improve flow out of the head.


deshrouding



Chamber volume difference



exhaust port re-taper and polish

[Bean]

oldeskewltoy Wrote:[quote="ditn"]since i have alot of questions(again),i hope to collect them in this topic

you sneaky old bugger :wink:

I can vouch for Dans work, I am very pleased with my head and still think I did the right decision (had a OS valve Loynings head too).

[ditn]

@Vaptor
thats the idea,shortest piping route possible.
this is what i want to do but even shorter due to making the radiator shorter but much thicker and an intercooler next to it for straight super short pipes.
image pipe routing
my drawing

@Bean Bandit


@oldeskewltoy
yes that was the plan but mine was less eum good,i was thinking thinner headgasket change the deck and deshrouding.
I have followed your topics on club4ag and here for a while,always amazed with your work and the help you give.


the only problem im not sure of is the shipment
sending a head to the usa and back with customs will cost me alot im afraid

can you post/pm me some prices?

also something to keep in mind,if dp-engineering is to expensive for now,
it would probably be best to not do this with an oem ecu right?
(save until i can afford the vems+tuning+the head)

[oldeskewltoy]

ditn Wrote:@oldeskewltoy
yes that was the plan but mine was less eum good,i was thinking thinner headgasket change the deck and deshrouding.
I have followed your topics on club4ag and here for a while,always amazed with your work and the help you give.


the only problem im not sure of is the shipment
sending a head to the usa and back with customs will cost me alot im afraid

can you post/pm me some prices?

As of Feb 19th 2013:
Since I ALWAYS recommend a minimum level of work, I decided that pricing should reflect that minimum amount of service. I've condensed the bowls, and seats, tapering the guides, deshrouding and balancing the chambers, and the exhaust port re-taper into the minimum service I'll offer.

$500 (minimum service) to do the 16 bowls/seats, taper the valve guides, deshroud and balancing chamber volume, exhaust port re-taper, and polishing.
$120 to blend the intake guide bosses and to re-taper port roof - largeport
$150 to blend intake guide bosses, blend port walls, and re-taper port roof - smallport
$100 for machining of the heads surface
$60 for cam journal deburring and polishing, and overall deburring
$80 for hand lapped valves
$40 for re-assembly
$40 to set valve clearances - your supplied camshaft

Loynings valve jobs - a few hundred to a few thousand.

For this head... I'd recommend the minimum service + a Loynings 3 angle valve job with a back cut(about $850 total) Since you are under boost, the intake side porting is less needed, and can be avoided to save some money.

Concerning shipment... I've now shipped 2 heads to Europe... they cost about $150 each for shipping from the USA to Europe. *IF* I work on a head you supply... there should be little if any duties because I'll not be selling you any expensive parts(likely just valve seals), I'm just "fixing" your head :wink:

And just to put it all in perspective... Currency exchange info located here - http://www.xe.com/ucc/ the exchange rates might just make it affordable. With today's exchange rates(Feb 19th 2013), that $850 is only about €635

edit - add $100(€75) to get the head's surface machined to afford you 33cc chambers

[NoHachi]

Having the head done for more efficiency is a decent idea. But I would think twice about increasing the compression ratio. When you start taking an FI engine to he track you need every safety margin you can get. You won't notice those few hp off boost from the 1 point of compression, but you will notice the detonation after you heat soak at the end of a straight and have a bad fuel batch in the tank.

Your time is MUCH better spent at the intake and exhaust. Length of intake piping is secondary to flow losses (aka a straight path with gradual curves takes precedence over shorter routings). Superchargers also love large exhausts with big diameter primaries and at least 2.5" exits. Just make sure that every diameter change is very gradual. If you step from a 1.75" header exit to a 3" exhaust you'll end up with lots of turbulence, heavy droning and more noise then needed. What you can do is cut the header where its cross section is 2.5"in diameter and then have a welder make a new pipe and flange.

[Vaptor]

Have planed a 2" piping similer to what you have planned:



As a exhaust I am going to use a 4-2-1 equal length 1.65" runners with a 2.5" collector, exhaust piping will be 2.5" with a muffler end 3"

Also head work, with oversize valves, hope for a fun engine