High impedance inj with MAP low impedance ECU

[Trouble]

Yeah Ivan, there are three connectors up in that corner. All yellow. One has a black cap on it and has two wires going to it. tried that one, and wouldn't seem to make the connector flash. The other is a little larger, and has four wires going to it. Tried a number of different jumps this way and and nothing. I did manage to pop an efi 15amp fuse though. I need to go over my wiring and see if I've even got that thing wired corectly. I'm about a week away from saying screw all of this and buying either another harness and ecu from a real RHD AE86 (almost positive my harness is from some fwd thing) or swapping back to usdm.

[Ivan141]

It's the bigass yellow connector with the black cap on it FYI.
Try it again and have a good look at what the check engine light does.
I assume you made a typo when you said that the connector didnt flash.
BTW, trust me a FWD harness wouldnt come close to fitting in an ae86..I've compared an AE82 GT harness to an AE86 harness once and decided that I'd just butcher the AE82 wiring to fix the ae86 stuff.

Also, make sure that everything is connected properly. I accidentally switched the sensor connectors (brown connector and a green one I think) on the back of the cylinder head once, and that made the engine run like crap too.

[Trouble]

Ivan141 Wrote:It's the bigass yellow connector with the black cap on it FYI.
Try it again and have a good look at what the check engine light does.
I assume you made a typo when you said that the connector didnt flash.
BTW, trust me a FWD harness wouldnt come close to fitting in an ae86..I've compared an AE82 GT harness to an AE86 harness once and decided that I'd just butcher the AE82 wiring to fix the ae86 stuff.

Also, make sure that everything is connected properly. I accidentally switched the sensor connectors (brown connector and a green one I think) on the back of the cylinder head once, and that made the engine run like crap too.

Ok, well out of the three connectors, the biggest one has no black cover and has four connections on it. I did make a typo ( ), what I meant to say is that the cel does not flash. It still just stays on. Next, the harness I've got is really quite butchered in my opinion. And not like RHD to LHD butchered. To give you an idea, I had to move the connectors for the cold start time switch and the coolant temp sensor from the back of the motor to where they are on the front. That's like an extension of over a foot. Nothing should be that far off I would think. But according to your last comment, they are on the back of the head. Anyways, I've got the brown going to brown and green going to green, so that shouldn't be a problem.

EDIT: I took some pics of the connectors, and I'll post them in a bit. Also I'm on zenki ecu if that helps or anything.

[Trouble]

Ok, wouldn't let me attach for some reason. I'll link them.

The connectors at the back of the motor


What I have listed as the diagnostic connector



smaller connector that had a black cap, don't know what it is


smallest connector, no clue


no clue what this is


brown and green connectors at the front of the engine after I moved them almost 18 inches

[Ivan141]

Well that's a first....never seen that on any hachi I've ever seen.
That is supposed to be situated in a housing that is attached to the head on the firewall side of things.. Looks like you have some sort of custom inlet housing. Can you get a clear picture of that thing?

The diagnosis connector you're after is the one with 2 terminals.

[Trouble]

That inlet housing is the stock usdm housing. Nothing special. i'll take some pics of it for you later on. I'll try to jump the two wire connector today and see if that gets me anywhere.

[Trouble]

Ok, guys. I just had a chance to mess with the car. Been busy because of holidays and haven't had time. Anyways, I got the check engine light working. No codes. The car is still running like trash. It still won't idle for more than like 30 seconds with the damn map connected to a vacuum source.
So, just to check it out, I disconnected the map sensor from the manifold, and drove the car around the block. One word, SCARY. It wouldn't rev past like 3k with a load on it and it kept back firing like all hell. Before I had made it around the block I actually had to pull over and rev it a bit without load to clear out the chambers so that it wouldn't just fall on it's face and die. Smoked like hell the whole trip as well. Made it home without any other problems though.
Oh, check engine light jumped and flashing still has timing bouncing around a bit. Kind of annoying if you ask me.
Here's next on the list of things to do. Pull the intake mani and re install with new gaskets just in case one is faulty. Also installing the 240cc LOW IMPEDANCE injectors from an integra. God I hope this and getting the timing dead on will make a difference.

[Max_Misawa]

Its hard to get a MAP setup to run right for some reason

do you have the MAP dizzy?
MAP ignitor?
MAP ecu i have about 5 extras of if you need one

the car was running fine before with an AFM setup?

Max

[Trouble]

Haha, max, nice to see you hangin out here as well.

anyways, as i'm sure you've seen on club4ag, I got the car working by switching to honda b series injectors from a 91 ls integra (240cc low imp.). No problems with anything any more.

So, as for the question of high imp injectors working with map, the answer is no (for me at least).

Thanks guys for all your help and quick responses.

[Max_Misawa]

Thats good to know

Max